Reroot tutorials - Menu


How to start - back to menu

You don’t have to start with a real reroot with all the supplies if it’s making you nervous.
Most of us started out with unravelled yarn on a ratty barbie head or in my case, adding metallic thread to a hairdo and streaks from a long haired barbie folded and rooted onto a shorter haired doll. The thing is to get a feel for it and if it’s something you really don’t like then wig making is fine too.
I currently use a mix of the tool methods: hair strand on the finger method for detailing and dragging out a plug with the needle fork from a strand of hair placed on the head method for bulking.



How to make a reroot tool - back to menu


You can get a “wooden handle” (aka mushroom) pin vise for $3 and 10 x size 7 embroidery needles for $3.

The only problem with DIY is if you don’t wear safety goggles and send needle bits flying. This reroot tool has done 200 reroots. It has a nail inside - the head blocks the needle from dropping inside on hard heads. If you want a seperate hole poker, I suggest a second pin vise and a size 5 needle inserted point upwards with a piece of hard foam to cover it when not in use.

Mine is a simple pin vise wrapped in rag cloth with a broken kitchen utensil for the rubber part. I use size 7 crewels aka embroider needles for 5/6? heads, size 8 for smaller more precision work and size 4 or 5 for yarn reroots.




Howto cut reroot needles - back to menu


These are size 7 and 8 crewels/embroidery needles. The 8s are thinner and more fragile but better for detail work or soft vinyl. keep the large prong of the fork downwards and pointing inwards when doing the front line to avoid visible tears.

  1. Put on protective eyeglasses or sunglasses. Just do it.
  2. Sit down in good lighting
  3. Stick needle point down in sturdy foam
  4. Cut needle eye with wire cutters
  5. Stick second small piece of foam onto the resulting needle fork
  6. With wire cutters and both hands, cut about 1.5cm (or whatever your reroot needles’ usual size is) down the needle
  7. Find the needle fork end with the piece of foam stuck to it that went flying across the room
  8. Get out metal nail file and hold fork part of the needle with pliers, sand down the biggest fork prong until it’s not sharp anymore, this will wreck the metal file within about 4 needles. Worth it for not ripping your fingers up.
  9. Dispose of unneeded needle points + eyes after wrapping them in tape



How to Reroot - back to menu


  • Cut the hair to twice the length you would like on the doll
  • Take a small strand and pull it over your index finger till you find the middle of the hair
  • Scoop that strand into the needle part of your reroot tool.
  • Stick the reroot tool into a premade hole in the dolls head, it should make a slight pop and when you pull out, the hair will stay in place.
  • Do this until the entire head is covered (this takes at least 3-4 hours) then pour glue into the head via the neck hole.
  • Let it dry with the neck hole upwards overnight before putting it back on your doll’s body.

What glue to use to seal the hair in?

Lots of people use fabri-tac or other non water soluble glues because you want to be able to wash a doll without it falling apart. Just make sure to get glue all around the inside of the head and dry upside down and you should be fine

I use UHU all purpose (black and yellow - not the green version) It dries hard after 48hours which is ideal for slippery fibers and easily cracked heads but if you boil the head it’ll turn white and rubbery and still hold the hair tight even though the scalp can be squished.




How to prepare a head for rerooting - back to menu


An important part of the rerooting process is head preparation: removing the old hair and preparing the scalp for new hair.Here are the tools I use:

  • Hair Scissors and Nail scissors to remove the bulk of the hair then cut down to the lowest possible.
  • Hemostats to scrape the inside of the head and remove the hair from the inside of the head, little tweezers o remove lone plugs from the ouside of the head.
  • Rubbing alcohol for cleaning the doll
  • Acetone to remove the scalp paint (cotton pad for large amounts, cotton bud for details) - do not get on the face!
  • Super glue in gel form to fill in big holes in the scalp (it dries after 12h into a flexible but solid state unlike other glues that just go rock hard and snap off)
  • Fabric scrap to protect the face during the work.
  • Soap and water used to remove all chemical residues when handling the doll.



Reroot checklist - back to menu


  1. remove original hair
  2. photos of bald doll’s problem areas
  3. optional/ wash doll if glue head
  4. boil head. do not touch with anything until cool as it will scrape the paint decals.
  5. optional/ glue areas that can be fixed, wait 24h
  6. optional/ paint scalp (acrylic)
  7. optional/ seal scalp with matt varnish (for acrylic)
  8. measure, cut and seperate hair hanks with twist ties and crocodile clips
  9. bulk reroot
  10. detail reroot (front line and parting)
  11. check for thin areas
  12. add glue, wait 24h
  13. recheck for thin areas
  14. trim



Tutorial for quickly making a generic doll into a custom to gift, donate or resell - back to menu


Especially useful around the holidays.

You’ll need

  • hair (from a donor doll, from a hair extension, seperated sewing thread or about a ¼ of a hank of doll hair),
  • a reroot tool (a needle with the eye cut into a fork inserted into a pin vise or a piece of wood)
  • tiny scissors
  • a chopstick, a clean screwdriver, tweezers or hemostats to scrape the inside of the head.
  • 90 minutes
  • glue (not white glue or super glue)
  • 24h waiting time while the glue dries

First put the doll’s hair into a loose ponytail then gently cut the first line of hair (you can brush it out later), put your chopstick or hemostats inside the neck and scrape to pull the hair out of the holes then root in the hair. Listen to a podcast or watch some tv to not get too bored as this is a bit tedious. I like to put an extra line of plugs behind the originals to make the hair look thick. Also add a few plugs to the front of the parting so the doll will look cool with her hair down as well as in a ponytail.

Optional: You can also change the doll’s eye color with acrylic paint or with sharpie (sharpie only on the actual eye decal or it’ll bleed into the vinyl) or add nail art decorations.

This is also the method I use for restoring dolls who have worn hair from overbrushing if they’ve still got enough hair to avoid a full reroot (or don’t have glue heads!) except that you’ll need to take up to 2-3 hours gently back brushing the hair with your hands and cutting out torn, shorter strands. The area that gets the most damaged is that first line of plugs and the parting so cutting them out and replacing them after pruning the rest of the hair is a way of getting a like new custom doll.





How to reroot dolls with very fragile heads - back to menu


  • Boil the head to make the holes smaller
  • Glue the head split with superglue gel and avoid it during the reroot
  • Optional: add a thin layer of e6000 to the inside of the scalp for extra heft
  • Stuff the head with foam

To expand on that:

Be super careful when removing the original hair to not tug too hard on the holes (cutting super close to the head then gently scraping from the inside while the head is warm seems to work best)

Cover any risky looking areas superglue gel by pressing the glue into the holes with a big needle and scraping off the excess (24h drying time)

Make sure to point the needle so that it’s not sideways to the hole

When splits happen, seperate all the hair away from the split, warm the head, fill with superglue, leave to dry then work around it. Often the first line is the one to split so I have to redraw the hairline with a mechanical pencil then root in a new line of hair.

Stuff foam into the head with hemostats or tweezers, remove the same way when done.




Removing the hair from a vintage doll who’s hair has felted/melted together and rerooting a swiss cheese head safely - back to menu


  • Cover the faces with tissues when ever you’re working with them as friction from your hands could damage the vintage paint
  • Alternate between tough nail scissors and thinner sharper blades to pracically shave the hair as close to the head as possible: any plugs melted together will rip open a hole so slice between partings and clumps until you can see each individual plug. This is really messy, there will be hair dust everywhere but it’s worth it. You can’t compensate for all the holes the vintage rooting will have left but you can avoid making any more.
  • Resist the urge to use your hemostats and tweezers to yank on the hair: prefer scraping motions even if it takes longer for a cluster of hair (glued of felted together on the inside) to dislodge from the vinyl.
  • Take detailed photos of problem areas before boiling just the tops of the head on a thick chopstick [and again do not touch the face, let it dry off naturally.]
  • The top of the head can be wiped with acetone just don’t put huge amounts on the cotton wipe so it won’t drip anywhere near the face, take as many wipes as you need to do this slowly and safely.
  • wiping the faces with water + a plain cotton wipe is enough to remove the grime. repaint work is done after rerooting.
  • If the plastic tears are too wide, put a layer of UHU glue down inside the head and let it dry for 48 hours as a sort of second coating of plastic.
  • Fill the head with tiny pieces of foam to avoid squishing anything open and wrap the facial area in tissue before beginning rerooting work



Notes on misc doll fragilities - back to menu

  • Mattel: 2016-2021: wrap your doll’s faces that use the new Mattel printing process as mild friction can cause it to thin. Spray it with MSC if you’ve got some. Slap acrylic matte varnish over anything painted. It might be more eco friendly but time is not going to be kind to this stuff.
  • Integrity Toys, vintage dolls or latest fashionistas: Do NOT heat the faces -the ITs have pearl/shimmer finishes that go dull under heat, vintage dolls and 2019 fashionistas have decals or ink that can be altered or melted by heat, you’ll want to put your doll head on a stick and dip only the dome into a pan of boiling water until the vinyl reshapes.
  • Vintage dolls
    *Superglue or plastic bond the molding plug hole on her head to be a closed 8 shape and glue up any tears in the well around it.
    keep the face paint away from heat and keep it covered during the reroot just in case the blush is fragile.
    *Keeping a pen or a dowel in the head means that you can use the tool method without risk of tearing the thin vinyl. If you’re using the needle method, make sure to use one that’s super long so that the sharp end is never in contact with the head.
    *The chemical reaction between a forehead and the original nylon can leave burns that are visible at certain angles even after buffing. Depending on how detailed your photos are going to be, you might want to choose a hairstyle where the forehead is mostly hidden.



Gaps - back to menu


Often, rerooting by using just the factory plugs is not enough. The doll may have been originally created with bigger hair, curls or a specific hairstyle so the factory root pattern will match that.
A versatile reroot will allow for all kind of hairstyles on a doll so you’ll need to create your own holes to fill in the gaps.

This is Dresden after rerooting her factory plugs. I had to add 15-20 plugs more to fill in all the gaps.

Another example is Formal Funk Jade, a doll designed to have a tight pony tail hairdo. When her hair is down, she has no parting so her hair looks thin when loose: I gave her a side parting and filled out her hair a little with approx 50 plugs of hair.




How much doll hair should I buy? - back to menu


To calculate the size and number of hanks / skeins to buy :

It takes 3 + 1 half (about 40g), cut in half, to cover a 5/6? head with very long hair.

1 “hank” of saran is about 90cm and 12g therefore: A hank can be cut in 3 = length on the doll 14cm max from roots to ends. 2 hanks per reroot. A hank can be cut in 2  = length on the doll 20 – 22cm. 4 hanks per reroot.

1 “Skein” of Mylittlecustoms saran is 46cm and 12g, it contains as much hair as a hank but it is shorter. 4 skeins for a reroot  = length on the doll 23 cm.

1 “XL Skein” of Mylittlecustoms saran is 76cm and 40g, it contains approx. 3 and 1/3 hanks/skeins of fiber. 1 whole reroot (Cut in 2) = length on the doll 19cm.

1 “Large Hank” of Retrodolls saran is 90cm and 50g (contains just over 4 hanks) 1 “XL Hank” of Retrodolls saran is 90cm and 100g (contains 8 hanks)

Barbie collector size: 1.5 hanks cut in 3 = butt length.

Barbie collector size: 3 hanks cut in 2 = ankle length 24cm

Barbie playline: 2 hanks cut in 3, length on doll 14cm

Disney Store playline Cinderella: 2 and 1/4 hanks of Nylon cut in half, length of 20cm.

head sizes Playline and Superstar Barbie = 10cm = 3.93" aka 4 inch Collector Barbie is slightly smaller = 9.5cm = 3.75" Monster High/EAH/Bratz/Bratzillaz size: 13cm = 5.11" Myscene size : 11cm = 4.3"


Rooted Eyelashes - back to menu


  1. Root the eyelashes in a slight zigzag pattern so the plugs are close but don’t risk opening into a crack. Make the eyelashes very long (you’ll cut them later)
  2. Use an elastic + boil perm to set the long eyelashes up against the face
  3. Use nail scissors or sewing scissors to trim the eyelashes down

For a long lash dramatic look I press against the face and cut following the eyebrow.

For a cat’s eye press against the face and cut with a slight slant upwards towards the outer eye no longer than 3mm at the shortest part (so it will look like eyeliner not lashes at certain angles).

I keep short scraps of black and brown for eyelashes and usually like to add one or two plugs of the hair colour at the outer edge for flair.




hair piles - back to menu

bewbb asked: hey, i’m very new to rerooting, and whenever i’m working, its very hard for me to take hair out of the pile without creating a huge amount of unusable, frizzy hair. can you give me some advice ?

Hi! I gently seperate the hair and use the twistie ties that comes with electronics to keep small piles. I pull the hair sideways not down the length of the hair as that can make it bunch up on itself and I put any odd lengths in a baggie to sort out later if I run out of hair.
Then the pile I’m working with always has a crocodile clip right next to it for anytime i need to move or pause the rerooting so it doesn’t get knocked into a mess.
Finally I use a little bit of coconut oil on the hair (that gets washed off once the reroot is finished) to avoid it sticking to itself.
Basically prep time takes at least half hour: getting the hair in managed, tied down bundles with lots of clips at the ready to keep it from turning into a haystack =p
Another thing to remember is that if you have different hair lengths: use the longer stuff at the top of the head.



new hair line or split - back to menu


Pencil marks wipe off fast so I like to “pin head” reroot then fill in the blanks for redrawn hair lines and partings.


streaks gradient - back to menu


When the contrast between two colours is strong and you want to soften it you can add streaks and gradually space them out more to give a slight gradient effect. This works well for when you’ve done a colourful bangs/fringe replacement and you don’t want it to look punk/goth but more integrated into the overall hairstyle.



head painting - back to menu



Apply acrylic paint and pull the brush in one direction only to keep part of the plugs flesh toned (ie visible), then apply undiluted acrylic matte sealant (anything else gets tacky).
Leave to dry for two hours.
Scratch in the markings for the partings with a needle (middle and fringe/back of hair). As you can see, these got adjusted as the head came together.



bangs - back to menu

Rounded heavy bangs


A large curved shaped fringe area - Here it’s 1.50cm long and extends to the edges of her eyebrows.

Flat bangs:

  • Seperate out the front line of hair plugs.
  • Cut it and save the hair.
  • Use the hair folded on itself to add 1 or two lines of plugs behind that front row for a thicker, neater look.
  • Use hot water to style the hair downwards on the forehead (using a piece of elastic fabric like tights/hose is ideal for this).
  • Use nail scissors to neatly cut the fringe/bangs to just above the eyes but covering the eyebrows.


Triangle shaped bangs (as seen on Draculaura)



Sealing Bangs

To seal the shape of the hair without damaging the water soluble acrylic paint/sealant: you tie up the hair just right, pop the head in a baggie, put a chopstick in the head to push down because or else it’ll float and put it in boiling water, the elastics will snap but the bag sort of sticks to the shape of the head so it keeps the shape.



hairtypes - back to menu

For a reroot, you can use special doll hair, human extensions, wool, thread...For your OOAK dolls what you need to decide is if they are going to be display dolls or play dolls. If they are for display only, you can use just about any craft materials and glue in your house to decorate your doll and it'll look fine so long as you don't get her wet or brush the hair too often.

Hair fibers?

  • DollGradeKaneKalon aka DGKK is on Ghoulia, 90s barbie, winter wonderland bratz: a very thin static hair that starts frazzling at just above 100°C so use water a moment after it’s boiled to style it.
  • Saran aka Katsilk is on Barbie, Mattel dolls, pre 2007 Bratz takes curls with heat+time but tends to revert to straight. My favourite type of hair. Some find it a little too "wet".Style at 120°C and below (often the lowest setting on a temp controlled hair iron) - cannot be dyed
  • Bad Nylon on disney descendants, bratz with the awful hair: style at 100°C to 150°C - frazzles at 190°C - often cannot be dyed
  • Medium Nylon to HQ nylon on Momoko and My Little Pony: Slightly matte to very shiny finish, lots of beautiful colours available. Curls well, brushes well. style at 100°C to 150°C - frazzles at 190°C - can be dyed
  • HQ Nylon is on Star Darlings: a very shiny soft nylon: style at 100°C to 150°C - frazzles at 190°C - can be dyed
  • Kiwi aka Silk Milk aka Qiyue on Rainbow high/Rainbow surprise: Very shiny, silky, fine hair, comes in metallics, shiny and matte: not easy to use as it sticks to itself. can withstand upto 160°C - can be dyed
  • Polypropelene is on Barbie Extra
  • Dense Nylon aka monofiber aka TDP nylon, can withstand 200°C but styles at 140°C fine - cannot be dyed
  • Synthetic mohair is ultra soft, extremely fine and wispy but with decent tensile strength, it can withstand upto 160°C
Kiwi vs Saran demo:

Here’s what it looks like to pluck 3 plugs from the hair clump far edge with kiwi, saran and saran with a drop of water on the area on the finger (oil also works).
As you can see unless you pre-prepare all your plugs kiwi’s not fun as it sticks to itself. if you wet or oil the kiwi, it doesn’t change a thing.

Why does "nylon" come in such different qualities?

The name refers to the chemical process as much as anything; what matters is the thickness and the level of stiffness which varies from dry straw to buttery softness

Glossary

Denier = thickness of the fiber

Kanekalon vs doll grade kanekalon. one is used for hair braids and cheap wigs, the other is a super fine, super soft if a little brittle doll fibre

Manufacturers

Kiwi by Qiyue https://www.instagram.com/qiyuefrank/ https://www.instagram.com/dollhair2021_karen/

DG/Donggang filament make HQ nylon, GitD and polyethylene https://www.instagram.com/dollhairfiber/ http://donggangfilaments.com/en/product.asp

Asahi Kasei Saran https://www.asahi-kasei.co.jp/sarannet/en/dollhair.html

colour matches and misc guides

https://colorsponies.webs.com/g3hairmatches.htm g3 pony hair matches

http://mlparena.com/index.php/topic,385815.0.html guide to all doll hair types

http://www.nonaptime.com/2015/02/calculating-the-amount-of-hair-needed-for-a-reroot/

how much hair per reroot (cache!) http://www.nonaptime.com/2013/08/doll-reroot-and-resources-part-2/ types, methods, (cache!) http://www.nonaptime.com/2016/03/doll-hair-affair/ patterns  (cache!)

http://dollycare.blogspot.com/2010/11/guideline-reroot-patterns.html patterns




Hair retailers and what they sell - back to menu

http://restoredoll.com saran, nylon under premium nylon

https://mylittlecustom.com/ saran, nylon, kiwi, pilot

https://shimmerlocks.com/ saran, nylon

https://dollhairemporium.co.uk saran, nylon, kiwi (under nylon), dgkk, kk, Glow in the dark colours by donggang: YG001-009  (https://www.instagram.com/dhemporium/)

https://retro-dolls-us.myshopify.com/ same, Dense nylon as monofiber

https://thedollplanet.com/ Dense nylon as TDP nylon, nylon (add note about domain squatting)

https://www.ebay.com/str/dollmoreshop saran, Dense nylon as "heat resistant"

https://www.dolltress.com/ kiwi, kiwi metallics (https://www.instagram.com/dolltress/)

https://www.etsy.com/au/shop/CustomDollHairAU saran, nylon, kiwi (as synatra?)

https://www.ebay.com/str/grasshopper-shoppe?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 https://www.thefloatingisle.de/de_DE/puppenhaar/ https://www.thedollyverse.com/

shimmerlocks.com

dollyhair  potential new ownership, bad practices in the past

 

 

Buying dense nylon from aliexpress

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32996234089.html

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32841087067.html black is dark green, white is silver, neon green is emerald, pale blue is silvery mint dark blue requires color fasting with vinegar

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32839950560.html same

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000510928255.html this is also 80cm long

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003154181984.html

Buying kiwi from aliexpress:

(add more links, swatch and note about iceberg) https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32994972254.html nylon: top quality!




How I reroot very hard heads (harder than Integrity Toys) - back to menu


Some photos from working on the bratz pixiez:
  1. deciding on a widows peak and giving the face a heart shape by bringing the hair down at the ears.
  2. the nerve wracking moment when you put in new plugs across the forehead.
  3. mspainted hair plans for the client’s consideration based on prototype photos from toyfair and these that showed up on flickr at just the right time!
The difficulties are that you get about 4 minutes at a time where the head is soft enough to work with and that the head needs to be heated without frazzling the hair if you’re using saran. [ By ultra hard heads, I mean the type that give you five minutes of pliability even straight after boiling!]

You’ll need:
  • pin vise for tool method. With a nail or something solid inside the pin vise for the needle to press against.
  • foam block to place the head on while working
  • heat pad set to high heat
  • !timer!
  • no doll grade kanekalon as the frazzle temperature is too low.
  • crocodile clips
The biggest challenge, I guess, is the double tedium of having to wait for the head to heat every four minutes and then getting into the ‘groove’ of working only to have to stop because the head became unworkable again. Do not give in to the temptation to keep working, the plastic does not respond well and can leave big holes or risk cracking open. Vinyl needs some pliability when rerooting.

When heating the head, wrap the hair as low to the roots as possible in a tissue or piece of cotton then put on the timer for 3-5 minutes depending on how hot the heat pad is. You need the head to get hot enough to work but that heat is slightly too much for the saran fibre if you go over 5 mins!
Since your time is limited, make sure that you seperate out lots of wads of hair with crocodile clips so that you can quickly grab them when you run out.
Keep it all in small amounts, brushed and secured with clips etc as you’ll be moving more than usual and that means more risks for messing up hair piles!

Draw out your rerooting lines in pencil on the head in advance to not use up “reroot time” eyeballing and calculating.
Take extra care with front lines, part lines and vunerable areas on the head (take photos before beginning the reroot of any problem zones) as the head is a lot less forgiving.

Have something to do during the heating times and budget double the time of a normal reroot (though it’ll probably be 150-175% unless you’re planning something unusual).

I recommend Nylon over Saran for ultra hard heads as the melt temperature is higher for Nylon which gives you more leeway. Doll grade kanekalon frazzles if you do a boil perm slightly too soon after the boil so I definitely don’t recommend that.



Makeshift doll hair curler for use with a hair iron - back to menu


The stick is a fan nail brush I’ve only ever used to dust electronics that I snapped with wire cutters and sanded down the splintery bits,
Screwed into the long cylindrical nut is a coupling nut or rivet nut (closed end).
The clip is a crocodile clip but I didn’t need it as I was only curling a few strands.
Press the iron on the hair for 20 seconds at 120°C (lowest setting) then rotate a little and do 20 seconds more.
Wait a little while before sliding the hair off the cylinder as it’ll be scalding hot.



Patterns - back to menu

So far each colour band (front + back) has taken me 1h30 with the tool method.
The pencil rubs off during the reroot so I recommend doing alternate bands of colour or painting the head.
Paint the head with acrylic + seal with acrylic matte. The acrylic paint chips off in tiny little flakes where you reroot each hole but leaves plenty enough colour at the end.

Licca: 10 bands at the front: 6mm each
10 bands at the back: 5mm each
5 bands across the 3cm parting: 6mm each
(This will work with castle/new gen Licca heads with a slight redraw of the front line of hair for a more modern hairline. See side picture of the bald head.)
The stripe design worked out great with triple rainbows at the pigtails and options for lots of different hairstyles that show the single or double rainbow.
Barbie: 5-6 colour gradient reroot for Barbies: 5 or 6mm at the front but the parting portions need to be 3-4mm apart.
MH: Sectioned off 5 zones for 5 colours: I made a pencil mark at 6mm along the front line and 6mm along the parting then drew semi circles.
I used the new stripe pattern made for Endless Hair Asha to create these two rainbow reroots. Instead of lines straight down the head, my gradient semi circles pattern or the triple rainbow ‘circles plus lines’: this method uses a line down the back to divide 4 of the colours. I’m not sure this will work as well on gradient ‘ombré’ reroots as there’s a circular effect to the rainbow where the red meets the pink in back that you wouldn’t get with light to dark for example. $$$pearlùùù

Just spent two hours writing an email tutorial so I might as well share here except that was in french. uh let me shift.

Ok if you’re looking for a pearlized effect for your doll hair you have options:

-the natural silkiness of saran as seen on Dresden (champagne) and Bonita (platinum) or even better a blend adds dimension and colour to the existing sheen Winterball Cloe uses a blend of shiny starlight and blond.

-Nylons that are shiny: frankie has a matte bright white siberia that only shines under flash (see snow white), Amaya has naturally shiny iceberg, her twin Demaya has iceberg and silver rainbow tinsel for extra bling

note: silver must be used with caution and very small amounts:  it tends to turn out grey. ask for examples if you’re interested, I only get 10 photos here.

-Metallic sheen kiwi: does exactly what it says.

My personal preference for “pearlized” effect is to blend a teensy bit of colour into saran instead of going the “diamond” effect with shimmer.

examples of time and amounts Mbili 2001 collector size: 3 hanks cut in 2 - ankle length 24cm - 3.5 hours Asha playline: 2 hanks cut in 3, length on doll 14cm - 3.5 hours Millie playline: 1.75 hanks cut in 4, length on doll 11cm - 3.5 hours Neysa playline: Just over a hank (hairline split and was redone- can’t remember how I did this exactly and archive only shows the head crack whinging) - 3.5 hours MyScene Madison: medium hank - waist length 12cm - 4 hours Pixies 4.5″ head: 80g of an XL hank, 33cm - 8 hours (hard heads) FR reroots look 5+ hours. add falbala, ariel, miko Star Darlings Anisette took about 30g of hair (almost 3 hanks) for a ankle length reroot. Star Darlings Mint took less than 25g (a large hank) for a butt length reroot.