No ear reroot

  Some work in progress photos to illustrate how I’ve recently done reroots on dolls with holes in their heads (2 barbies with scalp holes for hair/crown gimmicks) and now a monster high clawdeen with the animal ears removed.

E6000 glue placed inside the head via the neck and from the outside of the holes. It’s self levelling so I tape over it and leave it to dry upside down for over 24-36h (anything less and it’ll stick to the tape when you remove it and you’ll have to add more glue. These aren’t thin strips of glue but probably 5 – 7mm globs. It’ll need another 24h to be safe to reroot.

I used a very sharp exacto knife to remove any excess bits on the edge of the holes as it could easily start to peel and pull off.

The glue grabs the needle just like vinyl does so it’s good for a tool method reroot.

I don’t like to layer on the scalp paint too thick (if I use paint at all) to better see the existing holes. The glue patched earholes show up as slightly darker but they’re completely hidden in most hair styles.

I recommend painting over the earholes to be totally opaque when rerooting a pale skinned doll such as Catrine, or if you’re using nylon which is slightly translucent.

Things they don’t tell you about flocking in the most popular tutorials:

If you do not have the exact same glue, do not follow the same instructions or wait times.

  • Watering down your glue may lead to the flocking dripping off your doll’s head slowly if it isn’t a quick drying glue
  • Whatever glue you use make sure that it is solid enough to not ooze. Brush it on then use something flat like a card to make sure the glue isn’t thicker in parts then let it get a little bit tacky before putting on your flocking.
    If you use your fingers to tap down the flocking be very, very gentle as you’ll just push around the flocking which leaves thick and thin bits.
    Waiting an hour with white school glue was not long enough., I went to brush off the flock and made a mess. If in doubt, wait overnight.

You may have to try this multiple times before you get it right so you won’t have the luxury of not collecting up the un-used flocking for re-use

  • Don’t use a plate, use a box with nice pointy corners or collecting your flock for re-use will be difficult. Using paper that you then fold to pour out the flock might seem like a smart idea but don’t underestimate the power of flock to go flying all over the place if you so much as breathe wrong.
  • Make sure to look through the flock for any particules that might have gotten in and remove that with tweezers.

Flocking a flexible head is different from flocking a hard head (such as vintage male dolls, integrity toys or ball jointed dolls)

  • The edges will probably come unstuck if you have to manipulate the head and depending on the style it may not withstand transport in a bubble enveloppe.
  • You will want to reroot first then apply masking tape while flocking as the hair roots may absorb glue if they are a porous fibre.

Different flockings will act differently so following a tutorial made for X flock may not work for what you have in mind for your doll.

  • The wool flock I used went white and crunchy when using multiple layers because it absorbed the glue too well so it was easier to gently apply extra wool to thin spots by hand bit by bit.
  • The glitter became dulled and grey where the glue was too thick. Also some glitters or flock made from chopped ribbon will bleed colour when mixed in non water based glues. (This can stain your doll)
  • Velvet flock usually needs multiple layers to look good.
  • The flock they sell in doll restoration shops is often finely chopped doll hair so you can make your own to match the exact colour of the reroot.

Extra stuff

  • If using masking tape, you need to remove it while the glue is still a bit wet or you’ll tear your new flocking which has a paperlike quality
  • scale matters! the flock that creates a fuzzy look on a small ken head may make a larger doll look near bald. Are you going for a shaved look or a pixie cut look?
  • You can work with chopped wool or mohair for a fluffier look and trim any excess with tiny scissors
  • Flocking is too delicate to serve as a wig: you’ll want to create a hard wig cap then flock that or create something fairly solid (and bulky) with silicone glue or caulk.
  • The amount of microbeads/nail caviar contained in a small vial such as those in 12 colour sets (barely 1g) is not nearly enough for a Monster High sized head and microbeads get embedded in the rooting holes and take quite some scrubbing out if you change your mind or mess it up.
  • paint the scalp if you’re using translucent microbeads as it’ll look patchy no matter how many layers you add

Glue removal for Monster high or other Mattel dolls with glue in their heads using talc

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This works with both the white and yellow glues but it does have to be disintegrating and therefore sticky. This won’t work if the talc can’t stick to the glue.

  • Put on some clothes that you don’t mind getting covered in talc and use a face mask if you have asthma.
  • Put your thumb over the neck hole while shaking the head or you’ll get talc everywhere.
  • Squish the head to break up the glue and shake some more.
  • Tap the neck hole against your hand to get the lumps out. You may need tweezers for the bigger bits.
  • Repeat
  • You can use a screwdriver or long scissors or hemostats to gently scrape around the inside of the head to dislodge more glue but be careful to not pull hair into the head.

I used this method on my Honey Swamp (early june 2016, 4 months ago at the time of this post) and she’s not seeped anymore glue. It’s still early but now that so much glue is out, I’m hopeful that she won’t seep more and require a reroot – I don’t want to touch those gorgeous curls!

tutorials to add

removing glue from mattel doll heads with talc
-dollar store ebay doll clothes and accessories reviews
-making an 8-9″ BJD wig work for Pullip
-different methods for rerooting a fringe/bangs

$2 fakie body review

Another dollarstore ebay review:

The $2 body aka “doll toy no head” or the pale fakie body without the torso joint.

Ok where to start? Well mine arrived broken and with two right lower legs so that took a classic “drill a hole with a nail drill, put in a piece of paper clip + glue it” fix and it’s kind of obvious that she’s got wonky lower legs.

  • The body arrived with the arms seperate so you’ll need to crack open the torso to put them in.
  • The torso and upperlegs are made of thin hollow hard plastic that is light enough for Licca, Kuhrn, Lelia, etc…
  • The hard plastic has black marks that only go away with sanding or wiping with magic eraser.
  • The neck knob doesn’t allow for much range of movement.
  • The upper legs have heavy seams that needed scraping off with a craft knife as they interfered with movement at the hip joint
  • The arms and lower legs are vinyl of a darker skintone with darker marks in the vinyl itself (cannot be removed), joints of a different colour and some flash on the hands. The joints hold well. The different pieces aren’t removable.

While this body is a *lot* less floppy than the fakie body with a torso joint and is an OK match for pale skintones it’s also lesser quality in terms of the hollow plastic and mismatched arms/lower legs. You’ll need a magic eraser + craft knife to prep this body for use and it’ll be discoloured. I don’t recommend it for dyeing as there are too many different plastic types and colours.

Listing image, Arrival and Pin repair:
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The flaws:
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Body after seam removal and magic eraser, Body with Lelia head
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How to make Littlest Pet Shop & Lil Bratz hybrids

First heat the Lil Bratz head to remove it from it’s body
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Then cut off the long neck peg spike above the knob
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Now remove your Petshop head from it’s tiny body, heat the head and pull out the semicircle neck piece:
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Place the semicircle neckpiece over the Lil Bratz neckknob and push it back into the Petshop head.
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The head will be a little wobbly but firmly on! The Lil Bratz body is a great match for normal Littlest Petshop heads.

20 Barbie glasses for a dollar review

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From Ebay China. A few years back a chinese seller had these black glasses at $1 per pair and I bought several for my Barbies. I hadn’t seen them at less then $4 since… until last month – twenty at once with free shipping!

They were bought on the 28th of november and arrived the 4th of january.

Here’s the link to get your own:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_sop=15&_nkw=20glassesbarbie&rt=nc&LH_FS=1&_trksid=p2045573.m1684

They all have a teeny bit of flash on the upper bridge, I removed it with a knife for all the doll photos here. The glasses fit Barbie + Integrity sizes best and can be bent to fit Myscene and Licca but they look rather unfortunate on Myscene who’s eyes are painted off center for a cute cartoony effect. They don’t fit Monster High.

The hipster Licca picture is free to distribute and edit. ?

Tutorial: ball chains necklaces for dolls

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Now, most of you probably know about repurposing those little keychain/bag ball chains to make a necklace for your dolls but it can get really fiddly trying to get it on and you’re limited to silver metals that might stain.

Here’s a quick primer on how I’ve been making these:

Buy aluminium ball chains in multicolours and aluminium ball chain clasps in the same ball size (got 500 clasps and a bundle of 6 chains for $1 each free p+p from ebay china).
You then cut the chains to the right length for your doll with a wire cutter and before you add the clasp: widen both ends by pushing a round nose plier upwards so that the clasp is now easy to pop on your doll even when there’s limited space for your fingers (like in the three wrap seen above on Bélla).

As usual, if you’d like some clasps from me (I have hundreds left!) just ask me to add them to an existing order or just pay postage. If you’d like a ballchain necklace, same: 3 for $1.

PS: Bélla is named after Gina Torrès’ character in Hannibal and she’s a modified Magic Nights Out Sashabella.

More Saran hair comparisons: Retrodolls.uk

New Lush lilac Saran batch from http://retrodolls.uk :
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New Clover (no longer high denier, beautiful grassy colour) from Retrodolls vs “evergreen” or “seafoam” from other dollhair vendors:
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As always the weights per hank were 11g-12g with a very generous 14g and 16g for Envy and Vapour blends. The hair arrived fast considering it was shipped from the UK.

 

Here’s an older photo of Pink Gin (which I use a lot) vs Cupcake Pink:
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It’s very slightly more orange but turns out gorgeously cutesy pastel pink when rerooted.