Tag Archives: barbie

Trial and error with déco flocking. Part 1

Barbie “Wonkette”: Success! Décoden caulk in plain white with AB coated 1mm glass beads and 2mm “micro diamonds” sharp facetted AB coated glass. Doesn’t shed. The shimmer effect is *~*amazing*~*. Kept.

Draculaura: Mixed. Décoden caulk white with a drip of red which ended up clashing with the face and not looking like icing at all, fixing caulk errors once it’s begun to dry (and it’s fast) is messy. Flakes don’t stick unless pressed in. Back to bald.

Barbie Desirée: Nope. UHU glue leeches the colour from painted glass beads which discolour in patches (no photos of this step sorry) and stains the plastic. Second attempt with E6000 does not grip the glass beads which shed upon touch. Back to bald.

Bratz Sharidan: Mixed. UHU glue works well with both glitter and plastic diamonds. Very nice and solid. Scalp needs painting first & the shiny showgirl helmet makes the eye makeup look dull. Back to bald.

Removing the hair from a vintage doll who’s hair has felted/melted together and rerooting a swiss cheese head safely

  • Cover the faces with tissues when ever you’re working with them as friction from your hands could damage the vintage paint
  • Alternate between tough nail scissors and thinner sharper blades to pracically shave the hair as close to the head as possible: any plugs melted together will rip open a hole so slice between partings and clumps until you can see each individual plug. This is really messy, there will be hair dust everywhere but it’s worth it. You can’t compensate for all the holes the vintage rooting will have left but you can avoid making any more.
  • Resist the urge to use your hemostats and tweezers to yank on the hair: prefer scraping motions even if it takes longer for a cluster of hair (glued of felted together on the inside) to dislodge from the vinyl.
  • Take detailed photos of problem areas before boiling just the tops of the head on a thick chopstick [and again do not touch the face, let it dry off naturally.]
  • The top of the head can be wiped with acetone just don’t put huge amounts on the cotton wipe so it won’t drip anywhere near the face, take as many wipes as you need to do this slowly and safely.
  • wiping the faces with water + a plain cotton wipe is enough to remove the grime. repaint work is done after rerooting.
  • If the plastic tears are too wide, put a layer of UHU glue down inside the head and let it dry for 48 hours as a sort of second coating of plastic.
  •   fill the head with tiny pieces of sponge to avoid squishing anything open and wrap the facial area in tissue before beginning rerooting work (obviously do this AFTER you’ve drawn the new hairline, not like me who had to undo it all then redo it LOL)

freckles

I mix two browns, water and matte acrylic sealant with a brush then use one side of some craft tweezers -large size but pointed ends- to make the dots. One dot to test on the little piece of plastic used as a palette, one or two, sometimes three on the doll to vary in size and pigmentation.

Teflon tape to fix floppy dolls

Teflon tape is one of the more important tools in a doll collectors arsenal, it’s a tape that won’t melt plastic or degrade and that can be pulled into a very fine string to fit around floppy joints, around necks that need re-inforcing and for holding glued things tightly together while they dry (snapped barbie necks for example). It costs about a $1 at any hardware store or off ebay. It’s the playline version of sueding a BJD and the knowledge was passed down from japanese obitsu/volks articulated doll collectors and action figure kitbashers.

Since I had the tape out, I did Curvy Made to Move Barbie’s feet that are notoriously floppy under the weight of her heavy plastic body: tuck in the end of the tape with a blunt needle or tweezer then wrap, pulling tightly as you go, tuck the last bit and ta da!

She can stand on her own, even barefoot! The only drawback is that it’s not transparent, as you can see from the photos above, you can see a small white bit where a joint has been wrapped.

Here are some monster high knees fixed with teflon tape:

Carving hip joints or How to get a bent leg fashionista barbie body to sit down

How to get a bent leg nu!fashionista body to sit down: You’ve probably seen this before with @dollsahoy‘s Disney dolls and @oak23?s Fashionista mods but here are some closeups just to add to the knowledge.

This is pretty in Python fashionista with a slightly bent leg so she can’t sit:

I cut + shave with a craft knife (and gloves) all the way up to the top line of the molded underwear and cut a near 90% angle into the front until the doll can sit with her back straight. A metal nail file will help make the hard plastic not cut into the softer plastic of the leg but you run the risk of filing the soft part of the leg. I don’t know if you can pop off fashionista legs which would make the whole process so much easier. I havn’t wanted to try as I only have two: a curvy and my one and only afra toned body.

She can sit up at 90 degrees but she still has a tendancy to flop to one side if she’s not propped up with her hand or another doll because the whole torso is wonky and her center of gravity is not in the middle.

Notes after the fact: maybe wrap the leg in masking tape to avoid cuts that will then need sanding out and smoothing with acetone?

Review: 14 joint 25cm body

Review: $2 14 joint 25cm body.

It’s an odd one with some really good features (very poseable) but also very noodly aesthetic and unusual “inbetween” size for fashion dolls.

 

Size comparison:

Fits classic Barbie shoes

 

The neck needs modding so that most fashion doll heads aren’t angled upwards:

Skin tone comparison:

barbie ultra pale, fakies 12 joint and 11 joint, 25cm pale body and obitsu white skin

Wraparound petal fairy skirt for dolls

This is a classic no sew ribbon skirt with pieces taken from 10cm fabric roses knotted in first then ribbon added in between.

It was then clipped down and ironed at low heat (with my hair iron) to fold the rose petals.

I had bought the fabric roses to make hair clips but they turned out to be huge so I took them apart and the 4-petal pieces sat in a drawer for over a year, maybe two! This is a fiddly craft that would probably be a lot easier if you get out a needle and thread and sew the petals to each other!

Anyhow, it’s cute and I hope it inspires someone: you can use more than just ribbon for your knotted ribbon skirts!

Quick Review: $1.50 fashion doll fur coat

 

Cons:

  • mess from the factory and sheddings from the faux fur need removing on arrival
  • collar has not been finished (hemming would make it too bulky but it could have been singed instead)
  • a little bulky on barbie
  • large, contrasting hook and loop tape
  • unlined (red and black versions may stain vinyl)

Pros:

  • multi panel pattern looks very natural
  • long arms!
  • hemmed everywhere except the collar
  • elastic makes it cinch the waist
  • not too tight at the armpits and wrists so hands pop through nicely

Neck grafts to make a doll head fit a different body

This is 80’s – early 90’s Steffi by Simba


Like many Simba fashion dolls she comes on a body with a large spherical neck knob like this:


Which means that when you rebody her on standard fashion doll bodies modelled on Barbie, her head is too low down on the neck:

Enter Fakie who’s neck fits but who has terrible face paint, we’re going to cut out her neck with a craft knife and whittle that down until it fits in Steffi’s neck hole.

Here’s neckless Fakie and her whittled down neckhole fitting neatly on Barbie’s neckpeg:


Now using tweezers or a toothpick to push down the sides we insert the fakie neckhole into the Steffi neckhole – Ta da! As you can see, it holds well but you can glue it if you want it to be a permanent fix.

And here’s another fakie with a smaller neck grafted into Midnight Magic so she can fit on a monster high body     

1969 Barbie Julia

Saw this 1969 Julia Barbie on ebay in a TLC lot and knew I really wanted to try and fix her up.



Her hair was so frazzled that it was crumbling to dust and someone really had a good ol slash at her, I have no idea why. I rerooted her with foam in her head and then used enough glue to make the top of her head solid to avoid any further tearing.

I decided to go with inky blue instead of the usual red, black or ruby. The last photo is the closest match to how she looks IRL but still much too red.

I’ve noticed that most Julias have their eyebrows printed lower than the little brow bumps on her sculpt. She looks nothing like Diahann Caroll but she does have the cutest profile!

Her neck is smaller than your classic TNT/belly button body size (Repro Julia has a normal neck size) and I can’t possibly get my hands on a body dark enough and small enough here in france. I’d recommend finding a Francie body or maybe DCHC Bumblebee she’s a very close match to the 90s-2000s Nikki “light black”.