Tag Archives: barbie

Things they don’t tell you about flocking in the most popular tutorials:

If you do not have the exact same glue, do not follow the same instructions or wait times.

  • Watering down your glue may lead to the flocking dripping off your doll’s head slowly if it isn’t a quick drying glue
  • Whatever glue you use make sure that it is solid enough to not ooze. Brush it on then use something flat like a card to make sure the glue isn’t thicker in parts then let it get a little bit tacky before putting on your flocking.
    If you use your fingers to tap down the flocking be very, very gentle as you’ll just push around the flocking which leaves thick and thin bits.
    Waiting an hour with white school glue was not long enough., I went to brush off the flock and made a mess. If in doubt, wait overnight.

You may have to try this multiple times before you get it right so you won’t have the luxury of not collecting up the un-used flocking for re-use

  • Don’t use a plate, use a box with nice pointy corners or collecting your flock for re-use will be difficult. Using paper that you then fold to pour out the flock might seem like a smart idea but don’t underestimate the power of flock to go flying all over the place if you so much as breathe wrong.
  • Make sure to look through the flock for any particules that might have gotten in and remove that with tweezers.

Flocking a flexible head is different from flocking a hard head (such as vintage male dolls, integrity toys or ball jointed dolls)

  • The edges will probably come unstuck if you have to manipulate the head and depending on the style it may not withstand transport in a bubble enveloppe.
  • You will want to reroot first then apply masking tape while flocking as the hair roots may absorb glue if they are a porous fibre.

Different flockings will act differently so following a tutorial made for X flock may not work for what you have in mind for your doll.

  • The wool flock I used went white and crunchy when using multiple layers because it absorbed the glue too well so it was easier to gently apply extra wool to thin spots by hand bit by bit.
  • The glitter became dulled and grey where the glue was too thick. Also some glitters or flock made from chopped ribbon will bleed colour when mixed in non water based glues. (This can stain your doll)
  • Velvet flock usually needs multiple layers to look good.
  • The flock they sell in doll restoration shops is often finely chopped doll hair so you can make your own to match the exact colour of the reroot.

Extra stuff

  • If using masking tape, you need to remove it while the glue is still a bit wet or you’ll tear your new flocking which has a paperlike quality
  • scale matters! the flock that creates a fuzzy look on a small ken head may make a larger doll look near bald. Are you going for a shaved look or a pixie cut look?
  • You can work with chopped wool or mohair for a fluffier look and trim any excess with tiny scissors
  • Flocking is too delicate to serve as a wig: you’ll want to create a hard wig cap then flock that or create something fairly solid (and bulky) with silicone glue or caulk.
  • The amount of microbeads/nail caviar contained in a small vial such as those in 12 colour sets (barely 1g) is not nearly enough for a Monster High sized head and microbeads get embedded in the rooting holes and take quite some scrubbing out if you change your mind or mess it up.
  • paint the scalp if you’re using translucent microbeads as it’ll look patchy no matter how many layers you add

Glue removal for Monster high or other Mattel dolls with glue in their heads using talc

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This works with both the white and yellow glues but it does have to be disintegrating and therefore sticky. This won’t work if the talc can’t stick to the glue.

  • Put on some clothes that you don’t mind getting covered in talc and use a face mask if you have asthma.
  • Put your thumb over the neck hole while shaking the head or you’ll get talc everywhere.
  • Squish the head to break up the glue and shake some more.
  • Tap the neck hole against your hand to get the lumps out. You may need tweezers for the bigger bits.
  • Repeat
  • You can use a screwdriver or long scissors or hemostats to gently scrape around the inside of the head to dislodge more glue but be careful to not pull hair into the head.

I used this method on my Honey Swamp (early june 2016, 4 months ago at the time of this post) and she’s not seeped anymore glue. It’s still early but now that so much glue is out, I’m hopeful that she won’t seep more and require a reroot – I don’t want to touch those gorgeous curls!

$2 fakie body review

Another dollarstore ebay review:

The $2 body aka “doll toy no head” or the pale fakie body without the torso joint.

Ok where to start? Well mine arrived broken and with two right lower legs so that took a classic “drill a hole with a nail drill, put in a piece of paper clip + glue it” fix and it’s kind of obvious that she’s got wonky lower legs.

  • The body arrived with the arms seperate so you’ll need to crack open the torso to put them in.
  • The torso and upperlegs are made of thin hollow hard plastic that is light enough for Licca, Kuhrn, Lelia, etc…
  • The hard plastic has black marks that only go away with sanding or wiping with magic eraser.
  • The neck knob doesn’t allow for much range of movement.
  • The upper legs have heavy seams that needed scraping off with a craft knife as they interfered with movement at the hip joint
  • The arms and lower legs are vinyl of a darker skintone with darker marks in the vinyl itself (cannot be removed), joints of a different colour and some flash on the hands. The joints hold well. The different pieces aren’t removable.

While this body is a *lot* less floppy than the fakie body with a torso joint and is an OK match for pale skintones it’s also lesser quality in terms of the hollow plastic and mismatched arms/lower legs. You’ll need a magic eraser + craft knife to prep this body for use and it’ll be discoloured. I don’t recommend it for dyeing as there are too many different plastic types and colours.

Listing image, Arrival and Pin repair:
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The flaws:
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Body after seam removal and magic eraser, Body with Lelia head
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20 Barbie glasses for a dollar review

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From Ebay China. A few years back a chinese seller had these black glasses at $1 per pair and I bought several for my Barbies. I hadn’t seen them at less then $4 since… until last month – twenty at once with free shipping!

They were bought on the 28th of november and arrived the 4th of january.

Here’s the link to get your own:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_sop=15&_nkw=20glassesbarbie&rt=nc&LH_FS=1&_trksid=p2045573.m1684

They all have a teeny bit of flash on the upper bridge, I removed it with a knife for all the doll photos here. The glasses fit Barbie + Integrity sizes best and can be bent to fit Myscene and Licca but they look rather unfortunate on Myscene who’s eyes are painted off center for a cute cartoony effect. They don’t fit Monster High.

The hipster Licca picture is free to distribute and edit. ?

Sueding loose joints with E6000 glue

I had a fake fashionista body that was very loose. I used thick transparent elastic thread (1mm wide and very strong) to restring the legs by going back and forth several times as using fabric eleastic just didn’t work for me.

Here’s how I sueded the torso joint: a line of e6000 glue left to dry for two days creates a rubbery surface to which the bottom joint now has friction:
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As for the knees, I used a needle to apply a very thin layer of superglue to the inside of the loose joints then kept the joint moving as it dried. This creates just enough extra friction to keep the legs from flopping around.

Displaying your dolls and toys safe from dust

I’ve tried all sorts of things over the years for displaying my tiny toys: slotted cardboard to make squares, cardboard steps that didn’t hold up, etc… Buying display steps costs a small fortune and woodworking is just not possible for me.

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These steps were made from insulation styrofoam (left over from the move) which can be bought in 5-6cm thick panels for very cheap at your local hardware store.
I cut 3 panels: 15cm, 10cm and 5cm wide and stacked them using toothpicks and glue. Note: I used a much longer wood saw than the one shown because it was too messy with the little hacksaw. It’s very easy to saw through the soft styrofoam then rub the edges together to remove any leftover bits … but you’ll need a vacuum cleaner after as it gets very messy!
I’ll be monitoring closely for plastic melt over the next few months as some plastics just don’t play well together, I’d recommend covering your steps with craft paper or cotton fabric if you can.

The shelves are also protected from dust by transparent curtains made by buying those cheap storage bags that you attach to a vacuum to suck out the air and save space.
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They cost about $6-8 each from ebay shipped from china. Just cut the required amount of clear plastic from the side without the vacuum hole bit then use thumbtacks to attach it to the top of the shelves and sticky tack to keep it held down against the shelves.
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When you want to take photos of your collection you just roll it up on top of the bookcase to avoid the plastic glare. My dolls barely had any dust after a whole year untouched when I moved house because of this setup!

Eyelash rooting + cutting pattern for a “cat eye” look

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  1. Root the eyelashes closely together to avoid gaps, make the eyelashes very long (you’ll cut them later)
  2. Use an elastic + boil perm to set the long eyelashes up against the face
  3. Use nail scissors or sewing scissors to trim the eyelashes down to a slanting shape – no longer than 3mm at the shortest part (so it will look like eyeliner not lashes at certain angles).

Model: Myscene Madison custom “Blue Moon” who’s going to get a boil perm soon. Sorry about the sloppy photos, it’s just to show the technique. She had a wonky eye placement and the eyelashes are meant to minimise that.

Make a wig, froggystuff tutorial add on

Froggystuff posted an excellent quick doll wig tutorial, see it here.

Here’s how to make it seamless:
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After following the previous tutorial,
¤ Use an elastic band that you can sew through (flat) or around (thin)
If the elastic is too long, cut it to size and sew the ends together roughly.
¤ Pin it in several places to the head (push the pin through the elastic and into vinyl of the scalp)
¤ Sew it to the hair (use a matching colour thread)
¤ Turn it inside out and place it on your doll’s head
¤ Cut a fringe (bangs) if the elastic is too visible.

You now have a seamless wig that should hold nicely even when shaken!
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