Tag Archives: rerooting

No ear reroot

  Some work in progress photos to illustrate how I’ve recently done reroots on dolls with holes in their heads (2 barbies with scalp holes for hair/crown gimmicks) and now a monster high clawdeen with the animal ears removed.

E6000 glue placed inside the head via the neck and from the outside of the holes. It’s self levelling so I tape over it and leave it to dry upside down for over 24-36h (anything less and it’ll stick to the tape when you remove it and you’ll have to add more glue. These aren’t thin strips of glue but probably 5 – 7mm globs. It’ll need another 24h to be safe to reroot.

I used a very sharp exacto knife to remove any excess bits on the edge of the holes as it could easily start to peel and pull off.

The glue grabs the needle just like vinyl does so it’s good for a tool method reroot.

I don’t like to layer on the scalp paint too thick (if I use paint at all) to better see the existing holes. The glue patched earholes show up as slightly darker but they’re completely hidden in most hair styles.

I recommend painting over the earholes to be totally opaque when rerooting a pale skinned doll such as Catrine, or if you’re using nylon which is slightly translucent.

More Saran hair comparisons: Retrodolls.uk

New Lush lilac Saran batch from http://retrodolls.uk :
 photo lushlilac.jpg

New Clover (no longer high denier, beautiful grassy colour) from Retrodolls vs “evergreen” or “seafoam” from other dollhair vendors:
 photo clover vs evergreen.jpg

As always the weights per hank were 11g-12g with a very generous 14g and 16g for Envy and Vapour blends. The hair arrived fast considering it was shipped from the UK.


Here’s an older photo of Pink Gin (which I use a lot) vs Cupcake Pink:
 photo cupcake vs pink gin.jpg
It’s very slightly more orange but turns out gorgeously cutesy pastel pink when rerooted.

Calculating reroot amounts (in cm and grams)

Here’s my own cheat sheet (for the tool method aka hair folded in half and for saran, though I use the same amount of nylon as it tends to be lossy during prep/work).

To calculate the size and number of hanks / skeins to buy :
It takes 3 + 1 half (about 40g) , cut in half , to cover a 5/6″ head with very long hair.

1 “hank” of Retrodolls saran is about 90cm and 12g therefore:
A hank can be cut in 3 = length on the doll 14cm max from roots to ends. 2 hanks per reroot.
A hank can be cut in 2 = length on the doll 20 – 22cm. 4 hanks per reroot.

1 “Skein” of Mylittlecustoms/Restoredoll saran is 46cm and 12g, it contains as much hair as a hank but it is shorter.
4 skeins for a reroot = length on the doll 23 cm.

1 “XL Skein” of Mylittlecustoms/Restoredoll saran is 76cm and 40g, it contains approx. 3 and 1/3 hanks/skeins of fiber.
1 whole reroot (Cut in 2) = length on the doll 19cm.

1 “Large Hank” of Retrodolls saran is 90cm and 50g (contains just over 4 hanks)
1 “XL Hank” of Retrodolls saran is 90cm and 100g (contains 8 hanks)

Not using dollyhair hanks any more as they were averaging 8-9g.

See https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0As0WIngBCIdZdFIzRUdFZmZONktVNzM2eUd5STczVWc#gid=2 for the colour matches between sellers.


If you’re looking to measure your doll’s hair in inches, please see NoNapTime’s awesome tutorial: http://www.nonaptime.com/2015/02/calculating-the-amount-of-hair-needed-for-a-reroot

How to Reroot a fringe (bangs) on a doll

  • Seperate out the front line of hair plugs.
  •  photo foffringe1.jpg

  • Cut it and save the hair.
  •  photo foffringe2.jpg

  • Use the hair folded on itself to add 1 or two lines of plugs behind that front row for a thicker, neater look.
  •  photo funkoutfianna.jpg

  • Use hot water to style the hair downwards on the forehead (using a piece of elastic fabric like tights/hose is ideal for this).
  • Use nail scissors to neatly cut the fringe/bangs to just above the eyes but covering the eyebrows.
  •  photo fiorenza_transformation.jpg

    Review: Integrity Toys – Janay and Friends heads

    Bought 3 Janays and 1 Alysa for $6 each plus $4 postage from Ebay seller:  MushroomStreet.

    The heads are barbie sized, made of hard vinyl and came with their head anchor still inside the head.
    (tip: use a hairdryer and grab with pliers to gently ease it out)
     photo janayc_a.jpg
     photo janayo_a.jpg
     photo alysa_a.jpg
     photo janay_curls.jpg
    The ears are not pierced but there is a place marker for an ear hole, heads are marked “integrity 2001” on the neck. Neck hole is standard barbie size.
    The faces are gorgeously sculpted with slight matte texture to the face that looks and photographs like real skin.
    The eyebrows have hair detail and the blushing is very nicely blended.

    The hair, however, is terrible: unbrushable nylon, very thick in each plug but thinly rooted across the scalp.
     photo itjanayrooting.jpg

    I removed the hair from 3 of the 4 dolls but I’m unsure if they’ll be re-rootable due to the large holes in their heads. Head circumference is 3 inches (wig size 3).
     photo bald_janayo.jpg
     photo bald_alysa.jpg
     photo bald_janayc.jpg

    Head holes:
     photo bald_janayo1.jpg
     photo bald_janayc3.jpg
     photo bald_alysa_hole.jpg

    Finished result:
     photo janays.jpg

    Rerooting: Fixing head splits

    I use the tool method with a smaller size needle for soft vinyl but the biggest problem with soft vinyl is that it tears open really easy
    so here’s what I do to try to avoid it:

    1. Be super careful when removing the original hair to not tug too hard on the holes (cutting super close to the head then gently scraping from the inside while the head is warm seems to work best)
    2. Cover any risky looking areas with E6000 or superglue gel by pressing the glue into the holes with a big needle and scraping off the excess (24h drying time)
    3. Make sure to point the needle so that it’s not sideways to the hole (dollyhair.com has a good photo of this on their reroot page)
    4. When splits happen, seperate all the hair away from the split: fill with E6000 or superglue, leave to dry then work around it. Often the first line is the one to split so I have to redraw the hairline with a mechanical pencil then root in a new line of hair.

    — Photos to be added later —

    Saran colours from retrodolls

    Lush Lilac saran shifts from pale purples to shades of pink depending on the light.
    RTD Lush Lilac photo lushcombined.jpg

    Teal is a less grey, more green version of DH Lagoon Blue
     photo tealvslagoonblue.jpg
     photo blues.jpg

    Some reds compared to eachother:
    Celtic Red is the colour of tomato soup and Torch Auburn is blood red.
    Red sarans photo reds.png
     photo streakcolorswatchnatural.jpg

    Some blondes compared:
    Lemon has a slight green tinge to it.
    Blondie compared photo blondecomparedwithotherblondes.jpg
     photo blondesnoflash-1.jpg

    Notes: the acronyms DH, RD and RTD stand for Dollyhair, Restoredolls and Retrodolls who have different shades of saran hair on offer and use different names for them.

    Clones/Fakies: Jenny, Ddung and Lelia


    December was the month of the fakie with two Jenny clone heads ($1.50 each), a Lelia head ($3) and 6 Ddung clone heads as pen toppers ($0.60 for all 6) bought on a whim to play around with.
    I think they’ve turned out alright considering their initial state.
    The Ddung clones had the worst uneven vinyl that is paper thin in places.
    The Jenny heads have the most even moulding but with bubbles in one of the dolls’ face.
    The Lelia has the best face, it’s detailed and super cute. Shame about the head shape and original messy rooting.
    I think the Jenny heads need new eyepaint, the omega sign on full black irises is just too vacant, i’m going to mock up something in a photoediting program later.

    Lelia looks fabulous on both bratz body (needs rubber band to not wobble) or on barbie bodies. Jenny looks best on a bratz body or smaller (bratz kidz, obitsu 21-23, juku couture) and Ddung looks best on a body smaller than bratz (bratz kidz, obitsu 21-23, juku couture) .

    Eyelash rooting + cutting pattern for a “cat eye” look


    1. Root the eyelashes closely together to avoid gaps, make the eyelashes very long (you’ll cut them later)
    2. Use an elastic + boil perm to set the long eyelashes up against the face
    3. Use nail scissors or sewing scissors to trim the eyelashes down to a slanting shape – no longer than 3mm at the shortest part (so it will look like eyeliner not lashes at certain angles).

    Model: Myscene Madison custom “Blue Moon” who’s going to get a boil perm soon. Sorry about the sloppy photos, it’s just to show the technique. She had a wonky eye placement and the eyelashes are meant to minimise that.

    My reroot tool


    Here’s my workaround to make a pin vise (or “pin vice”) work with medium to hard heads.
    I placed a small screw into the barrel then a long nail (the needle rests on the head of the nail). The needle is a size 7-10 with a slanted cut eye.
    The barrel was wrapped with fabric scraps then plumbers tape then masking tape so that it doesn’t hurt my hand.

    * Pin Vise/Pin Vice – $3 (this is called “porte foret” ou “étau à goupille” in french)
    * Nail, screw and tapes – nicked from the tool kit
    * Fabric scraps
    * Size 7 crewel/embroidery needles for bratz heads, size 8 for barbie.