Barbie “Wonkette”: Success! Décoden caulk in plain white with AB coated 1mm glass beads and 2mm “micro diamonds” sharp facetted AB coated glass. Doesn’t shed. The shimmer effect is *~*amazing*~*. Kept.
Draculaura: Mixed. Décoden caulk white with a drip of red which ended up clashing with the face and not looking like icing at all, fixing caulk errors once it’s begun to dry (and it’s fast) is messy. Flakes don’t stick unless pressed in. Back to bald.
Barbie Desirée: Nope. UHU glue leeches the colour from painted glass beads which discolour in patches (no photos of this step sorry) and stains the plastic. Second attempt with E6000 does not grip the glass beads which shed upon touch. Back to bald.
Bratz Sharidan: Mixed. UHU glue works well with both glitter and plastic diamonds. Very nice and solid. Scalp needs painting first & the shiny showgirl helmet makes the eye makeup look dull. Back to bald.
How to get a bent leg nu!fashionista body to sit down: You’ve probably seen this before with @dollsahoy‘s Disney dolls and @oak23?s Fashionista mods but here are some closeups just to add to the knowledge.
This is pretty in Python fashionista with a slightly bent leg so she can’t sit:
I cut + shave with a craft knife (and gloves) all the way up to the top line of the molded underwear and cut a near 90% angle into the front until the doll can sit with her back straight. A metal nail file will help make the hard plastic not cut into the softer plastic of the leg but you run the risk of filing the soft part of the leg. I don’t know if you can pop off fashionista legs which would make the whole process so much easier. I havn’t wanted to try as I only have two: a curvy and my one and only afra toned body.
She can sit up at 90 degrees but she still has a tendancy to flop to one side if she’s not propped up with her hand or another doll because the whole torso is wonky and her center of gravity is not in the middle.
Notes after the fact: maybe wrap the leg in masking tape to avoid cuts that will then need sanding out and smoothing with acetone?
This is a classic no sew ribbon skirt with pieces taken from 10cm fabric roses knotted in first then ribbon added in between.
It was then clipped down and ironed at low heat (with my hair iron) to fold the rose petals.
I had bought the fabric roses to make hair clips but they turned out to be huge so I took them apart and the 4-petal pieces sat in a drawer for over a year, maybe two! This is a fiddly craft that would probably be a lot easier if you get out a needle and thread and sew the petals to each other!
Anyhow, it’s cute and I hope it inspires someone: you can use more than just ribbon for your knotted ribbon skirts!
So if you’ve known me for a while you know i’ve been experimenting with repurposing faux fur for several years. Partly driven by the desire to not spend 5-6 hours rerooting each bald head that comes my way and the fact that me and glue do not get along.
I have stashes of various faux fur bits that didn’t work out from various years in my room and I keep coming across them and adding them either to the $1 pile or the the “just pay postage” box. Now most of the short pile wigs were made from hand muffs, scarves and hats but it’s really hard to tell how long and how thick a fur is going to be when you’re not buying in person. “Same item, same seller” doesn’t equal same thickness or pile:
Anyway…. on to these four hats bought in a late summer sale 2016 that I’d carefully stored away (aka LOST) in a big ziplock bag under my bed. I made a MH/Bratz size wig and it was way too big, picked it apart and tried other things before remembering the ear muffs tuned into pale blue boleros from two weeks ago that were too thin for anything else: SCALE Matters!
I ended up finangling my own pattern [which you are welcome to use, I can send cardboard cutouts for the price of a stamp – this includes all my wig patterns because I have zero clue on how to digitize patterns in a way that would actually print at the proper size because the tutorials I’ve read are for adobe products or trying to sell digitizing software]
and I made these wigs (modelled by the lovely Pullip Papin – lips repaired + pink added to her general tone by Myufish, on a fantastically sturdy Liv body with a carved neck + homemade plastic washer. I love this hybrid so much.)
Working on earrings today with my “tiny treasures” collected from the under $1 ebay auctions over the years. I’m using plastic earring backings that can be bought for a dollar for a 100 and gluing 4-6mm flatbacks and findings to them with e6000The fruit earrings are made from slices of fimo canes cut with a craft knife to about 1mm – not the precut nail art because while that’s perfect for nails it’s too flimsy for doll earrings.
You can cut the stems to size or add silicone backings to secure them to your doll
I’ve tried all sorts of things over the years for displaying my tiny toys: slotted cardboard to make squares, cardboard steps that didn’t hold up, etc… Buying display steps costs a small fortune and woodworking is just not possible for me.
These steps were made from insulation styrofoam (left over from the move) which can be bought in 5-6cm thick panels for very cheap at your local hardware store.
I cut 3 panels: 15cm, 10cm and 5cm wide and stacked them using toothpicks and glue. Note: I used a much longer wood saw than the one shown because it was too messy with the little hacksaw. It’s very easy to saw through the soft styrofoam then rub the edges together to remove any leftover bits … but you’ll need a vacuum cleaner after as it gets very messy!
I’ll be monitoring closely for plastic melt over the next few months as some plastics just don’t play well together, I’d recommend covering your steps with craft paper or cotton fabric if you can.
The shelves are also protected from dust by transparent curtains made by buying those cheap storage bags that you attach to a vacuum to suck out the air and save space.
They cost about $6-8 each from ebay shipped from china. Just cut the required amount of clear plastic from the side without the vacuum hole bit then use thumbtacks to attach it to the top of the shelves and sticky tack to keep it held down against the shelves.
When you want to take photos of your collection you just roll it up on top of the bookcase to avoid the plastic glare. My dolls barely had any dust after a whole year untouched when I moved house because of this setup!
1- Purchase dollar store faux fur fingerless gloves or cuffs (or search ebay for “fur” with free shipping, worldwide, under $1.50)
2 – Unpick the fur part from the wooly part using a seam ripper
Note: If you’d like to save the gloves, stitch through all the open loops using a matching yarn.
3 – Get out your doll and wrap the fur inside out around the head and pin into place.
4 – Roll back some fur all around the head and pin it.
5 – Put pins in place as close as possible to the head
6 – Remove the fur from the head and turn it out and make sure to brush or pull out any fur trapped in the seams made by the pins.
7 – Quickly backstitch the rolled back fur hem and the basic shape of the wig.
8 – Go over and over the seam with pillowstitch to secure it.
9 – Turn it inside out and you have a wig!
One pair of gloves can make two or three wigs. The third wig will be made of two leftover bits sewn together and will be more messy – like the one I just made for this tutorial.
The cheapy faux fur gloves come in white, grey, black and coffee but you can also get equally cheap arm cuffs in fancy colours like red and pink (The arm cuffs can make up to 8 wigs).
Obviously it’s easier if you purchase faux fur fabric and use a 5/6 inch head pattern but this is for people who don’t have access to a fabric shop or don’t want to purchase a yard of the stuff. A generic pattern may not be a snug fit for your doll unless it’s a monster high specific pattern because of their unique head shapes.
Bi-colour wigs can also be rotated to give different effects.
1 – Use wire cutters or nail clippers to remove the earring peg part
2 – Sand it down a little if there are rough edges
3 – On the silver or gold earrings the sanded/cut part shows up much more
4 – If you rub the silver or gold ones with pure acetone on a cotton pad they turn a nice translucent white.
They fit Bratz, Bratzillaz, LIV and Obitsu, Monster high (if you remove the hands).
Monster Highs don’t have much in the way of casual trousers so here’s how to turn a pair of cheapy barbie sized trousers into nice monster high fitting ones without having to sew from scratch or move the velcro!
* Turn inside out (use a pencil or screwdriver), pin velcro closed.
* Move the waist to where it feels right on your doll then pinch and mark with a pen where the new crotch should be.
* Sew this very tightly through all layers.
* Unpick the old crotch and mark new lines then sew them up
* Pin the trousers so that the crotch and closure are aligned in the middle
* Pinch and mark new lines for the sides.
* Sew then trim (but careful to not trim too close if the fabric frays a lot)
* Now unpick the ankle hems then pin to the right length
* Cut the excess then sew it. Remember to do a hem or your doll’s feet will catch in the fabric.
Now you have a pair of monster high trousers!
I should have used a different fabric as denim is rough on the fingers to sew and this stuff frays like crazy so I had to go over all the seams with pillow stitch.
Anyway, enjoy the tutorial! Happy repurposing!