Tag Archives: experiments

Things they don’t tell you about flocking in the most popular tutorials:

If you do not have the exact same glue, do not follow the same instructions or wait times.

  • Watering down your glue may lead to the flocking dripping off your doll’s head slowly if it isn’t a quick drying glue
  • Whatever glue you use make sure that it is solid enough to not ooze. Brush it on then use something flat like a card to make sure the glue isn’t thicker in parts then let it get a little bit tacky before putting on your flocking.
    If you use your fingers to tap down the flocking be very, very gentle as you’ll just push around the flocking which leaves thick and thin bits.
    Waiting an hour with white school glue was not long enough., I went to brush off the flock and made a mess. If in doubt, wait overnight.

You may have to try this multiple times before you get it right so you won’t have the luxury of not collecting up the un-used flocking for re-use

  • Don’t use a plate, use a box with nice pointy corners or collecting your flock for re-use will be difficult. Using paper that you then fold to pour out the flock might seem like a smart idea but don’t underestimate the power of flock to go flying all over the place if you so much as breathe wrong.
  • Make sure to look through the flock for any particules that might have gotten in and remove that with tweezers.

Flocking a flexible head is different from flocking a hard head (such as vintage male dolls, integrity toys or ball jointed dolls)

  • The edges will probably come unstuck if you have to manipulate the head and depending on the style it may not withstand transport in a bubble enveloppe.
  • You will want to reroot first then apply masking tape while flocking as the hair roots may absorb glue if they are a porous fibre.

Different flockings will act differently so following a tutorial made for X flock may not work for what you have in mind for your doll.

  • The wool flock I used went white and crunchy when using multiple layers because it absorbed the glue too well so it was easier to gently apply extra wool to thin spots by hand bit by bit.
  • The glitter became dulled and grey where the glue was too thick. Also some glitters or flock made from chopped ribbon will bleed colour when mixed in non water based glues. (This can stain your doll)
  • Velvet flock usually needs multiple layers to look good.
  • The flock they sell in doll restoration shops is often finely chopped doll hair so you can make your own to match the exact colour of the reroot.

Extra stuff

  • If using masking tape, you need to remove it while the glue is still a bit wet or you’ll tear your new flocking which has a paperlike quality
  • scale matters! the flock that creates a fuzzy look on a small ken head may make a larger doll look near bald. Are you going for a shaved look or a pixie cut look?
  • You can work with chopped wool or mohair for a fluffier look and trim any excess with tiny scissors
  • Flocking is too delicate to serve as a wig: you’ll want to create a hard wig cap then flock that or create something fairly solid (and bulky) with silicone glue or caulk.
  • The amount of microbeads/nail caviar contained in a small vial such as those in 12 colour sets (barely 1g) is not nearly enough for a Monster High sized head and microbeads get embedded in the rooting holes and take quite some scrubbing out if you change your mind or mess it up.
  • paint the scalp if you’re using translucent microbeads as it’ll look patchy no matter how many layers you add

Clonezilla to Create a Monster torso

 photo monsterhightorso.jpg

  • Use wire cutters, a hacksaw and pliers to hack off the arms and legs from a clonezilla body
  • Saw down the hip attachment pegs to match the C.A.M. hole size.
  •  Use epoxy putty to fill in the shoulder holes and mould them to match the arm sockets by carefully putting the arm attachments in then pulling them out before it dries.
  •  Let the epoxy cure overnight. Insert the arms and click the legs on the little peg bits.
    Your doll will have almost as much movement as a CAM (can’t do the horizontal splits but can get half way).

 photo 100_4784.jpg
Ta da! Zhaan has a working body!

 photo jadora.jpg
Jadora the clonezilla got a Bratz body with a messing neckpeg.
Epoxy fixes don’t work with the hard vinyl of Bratz/Bratzilla heads because moving the head will crack the epoxy but clones and dolls with soft vinyl can use epoxy neck knobs proving you don’t need much head mobility. The best option is to use a head anchor from a donor doll and epoxy it into the neck hole as they are more flexible and allow up and down head movement. In Jadora’s case the body was too damaged to take a neck peg.

Modding a Pullip type 3 body’s knees.

picture

I’ve looked all over for the original tutorial I learned this trick from but havn’t been able to find it. Please let me know who to credit if you know!

* Take out the knee joint from your type3 body then scrape at the rounded knobbles at the back that limit movement of the knee with a craft knife.

picture
*Put the knee joint back in and your doll will be able to bend her legs further than before!

Anatomy of a fake blythe CCE doll

CCE stands for color changing eyes. This is a fake blythe doll bought from ebay (from a seller in Thailand).

picture
picture
picture

Eyechips are not the same size or depth as Blythe.
picture
picture

CCE Body compared to Bratz Body. The neckpeg  can be used to make any doll body compatible with the CCE doll’s head.
picture
picture
picture
picture

After sanding she looks quite nice.The CCE doll head matches fleshtone Obitsu body nicely

My modded Beauty Cuties – Barbie hybrid doll

Beauty Cuties Basics:

Head size: 14 inches, 36 cm
Rooted honey and platinum blonde nice quality hair on a solid 2-part scalp.
Eye mechanism: press down on empty pouch on dome of head to roll eyes and change eye colour.
4 eye colours: indigo looking right, green looking left, green looking up right, blue with stars looking straight ahead.

The head is make of a hard plastic but very slightly flexible and very easily washable (stains just rub off).
Her skin colour is and orangey tan like barbie. The faceup is very cute with lots of painted and real long lashes.

The lips could be less pouty and more smiley but I don’t know if that would make her creepier!
Very solidly built.
The stock body is smaller than bratz, bigger than lil bratz, has a rounded belly, a very small bust, bendable wired arms and legs and massive feet that don’t fit any fashion doll shoes.
In her stock body she cannot stand alone or sit up straight unless strapped (clicked) into her special chair.
The head is joined on to the stock body via a 3cm diameter area at top of neck. Switching bodies is going to a difficult task.

Pictures: On arrival in the chair, Head size comparison, The neck

Pictures: Body comparisons with Bratz, Obitsu 27 and Barbie

The Hybrid:

I sawed off her body at the neck and sawed off Barbie Gymnastic’s Body at half way down the neck.
Pliers were used to twist and pull out plastic from inside the neck holes then a small cylinder of wood was sawn to size and inserted into both holes to make the joint more solid. I used superglue and waited 12 hours: the head cracked off within minutes of play so i’m re-doing a much thicker superglue neck joint which will be fairly visible.

Ideally, I’d like to make a choker (my sister’s idea) with some sort of clay or epoxy to hold the body and head together, which will then be painted. I don’t have the supplies though so for the meantime we’re going with just glue.

What’s motivating is that she’s really cute on a big body. I’m more of a “little doll” type of person but she is quite charming once you get used to the size of her… and her weight: she makes a pullip head seem like nothing.

Pictures: Rockabelle hybrid, Making friends, Eye colours