So see the create a monsters up there? one is wearing a draculaura leg and another has lagoona arms (and bits from a clone spider body)
You’ll want a hacksaw or dremel with saw bit (wear protection glasses!!!), a grinder or a wire cutter + craft knife for cutting down plastic and a pair of pliers to crack bits open. Use a towel or gloves as cut plastic can be sharp.
Cut the legs about 1cm above the knee joint, a line across the upper torso from shoulder to shoulder and one about 8mm down the neck to keep the neck joint.
Put your pliers across the neck and knees to snap them off + three extra slices down each knee and across the neck to get your neck peg and legs free.
Dig your pliers into the upper torso and pull back while pulling down on the torso with your other hand: you want to crack open the torso by bending the plastic as trying to dremel your way to the shoulder bits will take ages.
You then file/grind/slice down the legs and shoulder pegs to match your create a monster bits. I tend to make them square shaped by doing 4 sides, it gives them a little bit more grip.
It’s not pretty but it works!
If possible I like to keep bodies and give them clone spider arms ($3 for 3 pairs of black arms!) but these were floppy, yellowed and had already been experimented on.
1/ If it’s dip dyed they used something idye poly and it smells like formaldehyde when heated
2/ Don’t strain yourself trying to straightening it: go for the higest setting on your iron (or notch it up little by little until you find what doesn’t burn). That’s a temperature of 200° Celcius on my iron (329° Fahrenheit)
3/ This applies to braiding kanekalon for human braids only! Glow in the dark kanekalon, Toyokalon, doll grade kanekalon and poly types will frazzle so always test the hair end before starting in the middle! Reminder that saran takes upto 120°C & no more.
4/ glue solidily into the head and wait a full 48 hours or it can come out while brushing or just moving the head.
I gave up looking for a pullip eye mechanism over a year ago, the pullip secondary market for me is dispersed between like one barely used american forum and the wild west of french ebay where the market is 50% blythe customs titled pullip, 45% overpriced full customs that don’t sell or BNIB, 5% grainy tiny photos with no information. Hey, I got a Papin fixer upper for real cheap once but mostly it’s seriously damaged or knockoff doll roulette. Rida aka Benie I got from ebay UK before they started charging obscene amounts in postage and customs fees.
Pullip Rida’s been wearing acrylic eyes BJD style – except while the lastest custom was in pieces – for years. Which is fine, except Pullips don’t have magnets so you have the unscrew the whole thing if dusting the shelf accidentally knocks the eye back into the head…and that happens more than you’d expect.
I’d heard rumours of people making their own eyemechs but no tutorials and I can’t really see how it would work without creating something as complicated as the original which is a nifty lil piece of engineering: 2 eye stalks on springs yoked together so that they move in tandem plus two seperate eyelids on springs pushed by two levers to wink or blink.
Instead I decided I’d put the pointy part of chopstick into the half eye so that I could manoeuvre it from the outside using the eyelid lever holes on the head’s backplate. I figured I could move the eyes anywhere I wanted that way.
Here’s what I learned: chopsticks give you zero movement and more importantly the eye lever holes in the back of a pullip’s head are not at eye level at all.
So here’s the revised eye stalks (cotton buds, I’ve since removed all cotton, not exactly clean looking – also removed the plastic filaments stuck to the eyes)
Thermo plastic + a cotton bud stalk at the very bottom of the eye at a 90 degree angle
Do they allow me to reposition the eyes side to side? NO
Do they allow me to put back the eyes in very slight side glance without opening the head? YES
Now if the spirit moves me someday, I could try a different eye stalk angle by putting the eyes in a cup of boiling water to make the thermoplastic soft again, move the stick and see if that gives more movement or I could try attaching both stalks to a piece of plastic and moving that with it’s own lever but I really doubt that they would align properly given how complex eye mechs are: it would be too stiff and you’d end up with wonkeye.
That’s my feeble contribution to all those stuck without an eyemech for their Pullip. Enjoy!
Temporary method: Wrap durable elastics (the type taken off stock dolls and their packaging) around the leg at the foot then gently roll them up the leg then use a tooth pick or tweezers to get them over into the hip socket.
Permanent method: Teflon tape is one of the more important tools in a doll collectors arsenal, it’s a tape that won’t melt plastic or degrade and that can be pulled into a very fine string to fit around floppy joints, around necks that need re-inforcing and for holding glued things tightly together while they dry (snapped barbie necks for example). It costs about a $1 at any hardware store or off ebay. It’s the playline version of sueding a BJD and the knowledge was passed down from japanese obitsu/volks articulated doll collectors and action figure kitbashers.
How to get a bent leg nu!fashionista body to sit down: You’ve probably seen this before with @dollsahoy‘s Disney dolls and @oak23?s Fashionista mods but here are some closeups just to add to the knowledge.
This is pretty in Python fashionista with a slightly bent leg so she can’t sit:
I cut + shave with a craft knife (and gloves) all the way up to the top line of the molded underwear and cut a near 90% angle into the front until the doll can sit with her back straight. A metal nail file will help make the hard plastic not cut into the softer plastic of the leg but you run the risk of filing the soft part of the leg. I don’t know if you can pop off fashionista legs which would make the whole process so much easier. I havn’t wanted to try as I only have two: a curvy and my one and only afra toned body.
She can sit up at 90 degrees but she still has a tendancy to flop to one side if she’s not propped up with her hand or another doll because the whole torso is wonky and her center of gravity is not in the middle.
Notes after the fact: maybe wrap the leg in masking tape to avoid cuts that will then need sanding out and smoothing with acetone?
This is 80’s – early 90’s Steffi by Simba
Like many Simba fashion dolls she comes on a body with a large spherical neck knob like this:
Which means that when you rebody her on standard fashion doll bodies modelled on Barbie, her head is too low down on the neck:
Enter Fakie who’s neck fits but who has terrible face paint, we’re going to cut out her neck with a craft knife and whittle that down until it fits in Steffi’s neck hole.
Here’s neckless Fakie and her whittled down neckhole fitting neatly on Barbie’s neckpeg:
Now using tweezers or a toothpick to push down the sides we insert the fakie neckhole into the Steffi neckhole – Ta da! As you can see, it holds well but you can glue it if you want it to be a permanent fix.
And here’s another fakie with a smaller neck grafted into Midnight Magic so she can fit on a monster high body
Here’s a fakie body who’s leg peg snapped (I forgot to check and cut open the plastic hinges before trying to pose her)
I used a mini rotary tool with a tiny drill bit (but you could also use a pin vise) and stuck in a pin – a tooth yanked out of a comb with pliers.
The super glue worked for one side but not the other -it just frosted the plastic- so it comes off easily but the leg does bend!
Now, most of you probably know about repurposing those little keychain/bag ball chains to make a necklace for your dolls but it can get really fiddly trying to get it on and you’re limited to silver metals that might stain.
Here’s a quick primer on how I’ve been making these:
Buy aluminium ball chains in multicolours and aluminium ball chain clasps in the same ball size (got 500 clasps and a bundle of 6 chains for $1 each free p+p from ebay china).
You then cut the chains to the right length for your doll with a wire cutter and before you add the clasp: widen both ends by pushing a round nose plier upwards so that the clasp is now easy to pop on your doll even when there’s limited space for your fingers (like in the three wrap seen above on Bélla).
As usual, if you’d like some clasps from me (I have hundreds left!) just ask me to add them to an existing order or just pay postage. If you’d like a ballchain necklace, same: 3 for $1.
PS: Bélla is named after Gina Torrès’ character in Hannibal and she’s a modified Magic Nights Out Sashabella.