Tag Archives: monster high

No ear reroot

  Some work in progress photos to illustrate how I’ve recently done reroots on dolls with holes in their heads (2 barbies with scalp holes for hair/crown gimmicks) and now a monster high clawdeen with the animal ears removed.

E6000 glue placed inside the head via the neck and from the outside of the holes. It’s self levelling so I tape over it and leave it to dry upside down for over 24-36h (anything less and it’ll stick to the tape when you remove it and you’ll have to add more glue. These aren’t thin strips of glue but probably 5 – 7mm globs. It’ll need another 24h to be safe to reroot.

I used a very sharp exacto knife to remove any excess bits on the edge of the holes as it could easily start to peel and pull off.

The glue grabs the needle just like vinyl does so it’s good for a tool method reroot.

I don’t like to layer on the scalp paint too thick (if I use paint at all) to better see the existing holes. The glue patched earholes show up as slightly darker but they’re completely hidden in most hair styles.

I recommend painting over the earholes to be totally opaque when rerooting a pale skinned doll such as Catrine, or if you’re using nylon which is slightly translucent.

Things they don’t tell you about flocking in the most popular tutorials:

If you do not have the exact same glue, do not follow the same instructions or wait times.

  • Watering down your glue may lead to the flocking dripping off your doll’s head slowly if it isn’t a quick drying glue
  • Whatever glue you use make sure that it is solid enough to not ooze. Brush it on then use something flat like a card to make sure the glue isn’t thicker in parts then let it get a little bit tacky before putting on your flocking.
    If you use your fingers to tap down the flocking be very, very gentle as you’ll just push around the flocking which leaves thick and thin bits.
    Waiting an hour with white school glue was not long enough., I went to brush off the flock and made a mess. If in doubt, wait overnight.

You may have to try this multiple times before you get it right so you won’t have the luxury of not collecting up the un-used flocking for re-use

  • Don’t use a plate, use a box with nice pointy corners or collecting your flock for re-use will be difficult. Using paper that you then fold to pour out the flock might seem like a smart idea but don’t underestimate the power of flock to go flying all over the place if you so much as breathe wrong.
  • Make sure to look through the flock for any particules that might have gotten in and remove that with tweezers.

Flocking a flexible head is different from flocking a hard head (such as vintage male dolls, integrity toys or ball jointed dolls)

  • The edges will probably come unstuck if you have to manipulate the head and depending on the style it may not withstand transport in a bubble enveloppe.
  • You will want to reroot first then apply masking tape while flocking as the hair roots may absorb glue if they are a porous fibre.

Different flockings will act differently so following a tutorial made for X flock may not work for what you have in mind for your doll.

  • The wool flock I used went white and crunchy when using multiple layers because it absorbed the glue too well so it was easier to gently apply extra wool to thin spots by hand bit by bit.
  • The glitter became dulled and grey where the glue was too thick. Also some glitters or flock made from chopped ribbon will bleed colour when mixed in non water based glues. (This can stain your doll)
  • Velvet flock usually needs multiple layers to look good.
  • The flock they sell in doll restoration shops is often finely chopped doll hair so you can make your own to match the exact colour of the reroot.

Extra stuff

  • If using masking tape, you need to remove it while the glue is still a bit wet or you’ll tear your new flocking which has a paperlike quality
  • scale matters! the flock that creates a fuzzy look on a small ken head may make a larger doll look near bald. Are you going for a shaved look or a pixie cut look?
  • You can work with chopped wool or mohair for a fluffier look and trim any excess with tiny scissors
  • Flocking is too delicate to serve as a wig: you’ll want to create a hard wig cap then flock that or create something fairly solid (and bulky) with silicone glue or caulk.
  • The amount of microbeads/nail caviar contained in a small vial such as those in 12 colour sets (barely 1g) is not nearly enough for a Monster High sized head and microbeads get embedded in the rooting holes and take quite some scrubbing out if you change your mind or mess it up.
  • paint the scalp if you’re using translucent microbeads as it’ll look patchy no matter how many layers you add

Glue removal for Monster high or other Mattel dolls with glue in their heads using talc

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This works with both the white and yellow glues but it does have to be disintegrating and therefore sticky. This won’t work if the talc can’t stick to the glue.

  • Put on some clothes that you don’t mind getting covered in talc and use a face mask if you have asthma.
  • Put your thumb over the neck hole while shaking the head or you’ll get talc everywhere.
  • Squish the head to break up the glue and shake some more.
  • Tap the neck hole against your hand to get the lumps out. You may need tweezers for the bigger bits.
  • Repeat
  • You can use a screwdriver or long scissors or hemostats to gently scrape around the inside of the head to dislodge more glue but be careful to not pull hair into the head.

I used this method on my Honey Swamp (early june 2016, 4 months ago at the time of this post) and she’s not seeped anymore glue. It’s still early but now that so much glue is out, I’m hopeful that she won’t seep more and require a reroot – I don’t want to touch those gorgeous curls!

Tutorial: ball chains necklaces for dolls

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Now, most of you probably know about repurposing those little keychain/bag ball chains to make a necklace for your dolls but it can get really fiddly trying to get it on and you’re limited to silver metals that might stain.

Here’s a quick primer on how I’ve been making these:

Buy aluminium ball chains in multicolours and aluminium ball chain clasps in the same ball size (got 500 clasps and a bundle of 6 chains for $1 each free p+p from ebay china).
You then cut the chains to the right length for your doll with a wire cutter and before you add the clasp: widen both ends by pushing a round nose plier upwards so that the clasp is now easy to pop on your doll even when there’s limited space for your fingers (like in the three wrap seen above on Bélla).

As usual, if you’d like some clasps from me (I have hundreds left!) just ask me to add them to an existing order or just pay postage. If you’d like a ballchain necklace, same: 3 for $1.

PS: Bélla is named after Gina Torrès’ character in Hannibal and she’s a modified Magic Nights Out Sashabella.

Calculating reroot amounts (in cm and grams)

Here’s my own cheat sheet (for the tool method aka hair folded in half and for saran, though I use the same amount of nylon as it tends to be lossy during prep/work).

To calculate the size and number of hanks / skeins to buy :
It takes 3 + 1 half (about 40g) , cut in half , to cover a 5/6″ head with very long hair.

1 “hank” of Retrodolls saran is about 90cm and 12g therefore:
A hank can be cut in 3 = length on the doll 14cm max from roots to ends. 2 hanks per reroot.
A hank can be cut in 2 = length on the doll 20 – 22cm. 4 hanks per reroot.

1 “Skein” of Mylittlecustoms/Restoredoll saran is 46cm and 12g, it contains as much hair as a hank but it is shorter.
4 skeins for a reroot = length on the doll 23 cm.

1 “XL Skein” of Mylittlecustoms/Restoredoll saran is 76cm and 40g, it contains approx. 3 and 1/3 hanks/skeins of fiber.
1 whole reroot (Cut in 2) = length on the doll 19cm.

1 “Large Hank” of Retrodolls saran is 90cm and 50g (contains just over 4 hanks)
1 “XL Hank” of Retrodolls saran is 90cm and 100g (contains 8 hanks)

Not using dollyhair hanks any more as they were averaging 8-9g.

See https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0As0WIngBCIdZdFIzRUdFZmZONktVNzM2eUd5STczVWc#gid=2 for the colour matches between sellers.

 

If you’re looking to measure your doll’s hair in inches, please see NoNapTime’s awesome tutorial: http://www.nonaptime.com/2015/02/calculating-the-amount-of-hair-needed-for-a-reroot

How to dress your Monster High Create a Monster Dragon

Slice, gently scrape, then sand down those pesky fins/crests.
Ta da! A seamless, easy to dress, pink body!

tutorial: dragon body modded photo dragontutorial.jpg

* Use your craft knife carefully to remove the bulk of the fin,
* Then use the back of the knife to scrape against the body which will leave slight striations as seen in the bottom arm picture.
* Get out your nail sanding block and sand away those lines until it’s invisible.
Now your monster can wear long sleeves and trousers!

tutorial: dragon body modded photo dragontutorial1.jpg

Updated! Reference: Monster High Clone body types

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The parts from both bodies are not interchangable.
Create a Monster limbs do not fit in either body’s sockets.
Grid underwear types work well as a standalone body replacement (if you can stand the plastic flaws and possible need to glue suede some of the joints) or torso for CAM.
Heads are a little too loose on the Heart underwear type neck knob.

Spare parts guide:

Create a Monster:
Grid type forearms,
Grid type lower legs with pegs built up with epoxy,
Heart type lower legs cracked out of the body with joints shaved down.
Grid type Torso with arms + legs cracked off, shoulders filled with epoxy and hip nubs cut down to fit.

Normal Monster High:
Heart type hands + forearms
Grid type hands + forearms with pegs shaved down.

In conclusion:
If you need new forearms or hands for your monster high, go with the Heart type.
If you need a standalone body, go with the Grid type.
The colors are not an exact match and the plastic is not as sturdy as official bodies but this is a last resort option for those unable to find spare parts without paying $15 to import from overseas.

These can be found by searching for “monster doll body” on aliexpress or on €bay (more expensive).

Wydowna Spider aka Weberella fakie/fake/clone review

From aliexpress: ‘spider monster doll’ (no box or fitting clothes) 1905328394 – $9 including shipping. Also available on €bay at $18
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Her body is well made: hard plastic with vinyl lower arms and legs (some marbling in the leg vinyl, some extra flash plastic nubs at her hip joints -shaved off). The arms and legs are flexible but not too loose. Her neck is a solid CAM style knob.
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The hair was horrid thick nylon, sparsely rooted. I decided to flock her hair and have her wear wigs if needed because I love this natural look! The white bits you can see on her scalp are where I filled the front row of holes with resin glue to avoid tearing.

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The head is the least solid part, it’s thinner than standard monster high heads and the paint is slightly faded. Mine had a huge 5mm empty bubble in the tip of her nose that I rebuilt with resin glue and painted black and a second 1mm bubble in her lips (repainted over with matte red).
The plastic had shiny parts at her eyebrow area and her chin that I sanded with medium grit with a nail buffer block.
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She’s wearing leggings cut out and resewn from a Moxie dress and a Monster High dress hastily given new arm seams to fit those triple arms.
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I flocked Grace using finely chopped up wool (seperated into strands first to keep the pieces as fine as possible).
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I find hobby flock to be too fine for realism and chopped up hair or ribbon works better for the eurasian hair types, type 4 curls are more fluffy. photo graceflocked.jpg
 

I just LOVED the spider doll concept from the very start but knew I’d probably never be able to purchase a Wydowna, even when they release her “I ? fashion” playline doll, I’d be looking at $60+ to import her. This doll is a body recast and approximate head (the original has higher cheekbones, a pointier nose and chin) but I don’t feel bad paying the factory workers directly since Mattel pays them so terribly for the legit dolls whilst making a huge profit.
corporate.mattel.com/about-us/PTMI-AuditSummary2010.pdf

If you decide to get one yourself, be aware that she may require several hours of work to tidy up the plastic, touch ups to the paint and tame the hair.

Another well done review: www.squidoo.com/fake-monster-high-wydowna-spider-doll