Now, most of you probably know about repurposing those little keychain/bag ball chains to make a necklace for your dolls but it can get really fiddly trying to get it on and you’re limited to silver metals that might stain.
Here’s a quick primer on how I’ve been making these:
Buy aluminium ball chains in multicolours and aluminium ball chain clasps in the same ball size (got 500 clasps and a bundle of 6 chains for $1 each free p+p from ebay china).
You then cut the chains to the right length for your doll with a wire cutter and before you add the clasp: widen both ends by pushing a round nose plier upwards so that the clasp is now easy to pop on your doll even when there’s limited space for your fingers (like in the three wrap seen above on Bélla).
As usual, if you’d like some clasps from me (I have hundreds left!) just ask me to add them to an existing order or just pay postage. If you’d like a ballchain necklace, same: 3 for $1.
PS: Bélla is named after Gina Torrès’ character in Hannibal and she’s a modified Magic Nights Out Sashabella.
Here’s my own cheat sheet (for the tool method aka hair folded in half and for saran, though I use the same amount of nylon as it tends to be lossy during prep/work).
To calculate the size and number of hanks / skeins to buy :
It takes 3 + 1 half (about 40g) , cut in half , to cover a 5/6″ head with very long hair.
1 “hank” of Retrodolls saran is about 90cm and 12g therefore:
A hank can be cut in 3 = length on the doll 14cm max from roots to ends. 2 hanks per reroot.
A hank can be cut in 2 = length on the doll 20 – 22cm. 4 hanks per reroot.
1 “Skein” of Mylittlecustoms/Restoredoll saran is 46cm and 12g, it contains as much hair as a hank but it is shorter.
4 skeins for a reroot = length on the doll 23 cm.
1 “XL Skein” of Mylittlecustoms/Restoredoll saran is 76cm and 40g, it contains approx. 3 and 1/3 hanks/skeins of fiber.
1 whole reroot (Cut in 2) = length on the doll 19cm.
1 “Large Hank” of Retrodolls saran is 90cm and 50g (contains just over 4 hanks)
1 “XL Hank” of Retrodolls saran is 90cm and 100g (contains 8 hanks)
Not using dollyhair hanks any more as they were averaging 8-9g.
See https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0As0WIngBCIdZdFIzRUdFZmZONktVNzM2eUd5STczVWc#gid=2 for the colour matches between sellers.
If you’re looking to measure your doll’s hair in inches, please see NoNapTime’s awesome tutorial: http://www.nonaptime.com/2015/02/calculating-the-amount-of-hair-needed-for-a-reroot
What to expect when you get off-brand barbie shoe packs + more shoe related info.
I’ve tried all sorts of things over the years for displaying my tiny toys: slotted cardboard to make squares, cardboard steps that didn’t hold up, etc… Buying display steps costs a small fortune and woodworking is just not possible for me.
These steps were made from insulation styrofoam (left over from the move) which can be bought in 5-6cm thick panels for very cheap at your local hardware store.
I cut 3 panels: 15cm, 10cm and 5cm wide and stacked them using toothpicks and glue. Note: I used a much longer wood saw than the one shown because it was too messy with the little hacksaw. It’s very easy to saw through the soft styrofoam then rub the edges together to remove any leftover bits … but you’ll need a vacuum cleaner after as it gets very messy!
I’ll be monitoring closely for plastic melt over the next few months as some plastics just don’t play well together, I’d recommend covering your steps with craft paper or cotton fabric if you can.
The shelves are also protected from dust by transparent curtains made by buying those cheap storage bags that you attach to a vacuum to suck out the air and save space.
They cost about $6-8 each from ebay shipped from china. Just cut the required amount of clear plastic from the side without the vacuum hole bit then use thumbtacks to attach it to the top of the shelves and sticky tack to keep it held down against the shelves.
When you want to take photos of your collection you just roll it up on top of the bookcase to avoid the plastic glare. My dolls barely had any dust after a whole year untouched when I moved house because of this setup!
1- Purchase dollar store faux fur fingerless gloves or cuffs (or search ebay for “fur” with free shipping, worldwide, under $1.50)
2 – Unpick the fur part from the wooly part using a seam ripper
Note: If you’d like to save the gloves, stitch through all the open loops using a matching yarn.
3 – Get out your doll and wrap the fur inside out around the head and pin into place.
4 – Roll back some fur all around the head and pin it.
5 – Put pins in place as close as possible to the head
6 – Remove the fur from the head and turn it out and make sure to brush or pull out any fur trapped in the seams made by the pins.
7 – Quickly backstitch the rolled back fur hem and the basic shape of the wig.
8 – Go over and over the seam with pillowstitch to secure it.
9 – Turn it inside out and you have a wig!
One pair of gloves can make two or three wigs. The third wig will be made of two leftover bits sewn together and will be more messy – like the one I just made for this tutorial.
The cheapy faux fur gloves come in white, grey, black and coffee but you can also get equally cheap arm cuffs in fancy colours like red and pink (The arm cuffs can make up to 8 wigs).
Obviously it’s easier if you purchase faux fur fabric and use a 5/6 inch head pattern but this is for people who don’t have access to a fabric shop or don’t want to purchase a yard of the stuff. A generic pattern may not be a snug fit for your doll unless it’s a monster high specific pattern because of their unique head shapes.
Bi-colour wigs can also be rotated to give different effects.
1 – Use wire cutters or nail clippers to remove the earring peg part
2 – Sand it down a little if there are rough edges
3 – On the silver or gold earrings the sanded/cut part shows up much more
4 – If you rub the silver or gold ones with pure acetone on a cotton pad they turn a nice translucent white.
They fit Bratz, Bratzillaz, LIV and Obitsu, Monster high (if you remove the hands).
- Root the eyelashes closely together to avoid gaps, make the eyelashes very long (you’ll cut them later)
- Use an elastic + boil perm to set the long eyelashes up against the face
- Use nail scissors or sewing scissors to trim the eyelashes down to a slanting shape – no longer than 3mm at the shortest part (so it will look like eyeliner not lashes at certain angles).
Model: Myscene Madison custom “Blue Moon” who’s going to get a boil perm soon. Sorry about the sloppy photos, it’s just to show the technique. She had a wonky eye placement and the eyelashes are meant to minimise that.
Froggystuff posted an excellent quick doll wig tutorial, see it here.
Here’s how to make it seamless:
After following the previous tutorial,
¤ Use an elastic band that you can sew through (flat) or around (thin)
If the elastic is too long, cut it to size and sew the ends together roughly.
¤ Pin it in several places to the head (push the pin through the elastic and into vinyl of the scalp)
¤ Sew it to the hair (use a matching colour thread)
¤ Turn it inside out and place it on your doll’s head
¤ Cut a fringe (bangs) if the elastic is too visible.
You now have a seamless wig that should hold nicely even when shaken!