Tag Archives: hair

Glue removal for Monster high or other Mattel dolls with glue in their heads using talc

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This works with both the white and yellow glues but it does have to be disintegrating and therefore sticky. This won’t work if the talc can’t stick to the glue.

  • Put on some clothes that you don’t mind getting covered in talc and use a face mask if you have asthma.
  • Put your thumb over the neck hole while shaking the head or you’ll get talc everywhere.
  • Squish the head to break up the glue and shake some more.
  • Tap the neck hole against your hand to get the lumps out. You may need tweezers for the bigger bits.
  • Repeat
  • You can use a screwdriver or long scissors or hemostats to gently scrape around the inside of the head to dislodge more glue but be careful to not pull hair into the head.

I used this method on my Honey Swamp (early june 2016, 4 months ago at the time of this post) and she’s not seeped anymore glue. It’s still early but now that so much glue is out, I’m hopeful that she won’t seep more and require a reroot – I don’t want to touch those gorgeous curls!

More Saran hair comparisons: Retrodolls.uk

New Lush lilac Saran batch from http://retrodolls.uk :
 photo lushlilac.jpg

New Clover (no longer high denier, beautiful grassy colour) from Retrodolls vs “evergreen” or “seafoam” from other dollhair vendors:
 photo clover vs evergreen.jpg

As always the weights per hank were 11g-12g with a very generous 14g and 16g for Envy and Vapour blends. The hair arrived fast considering it was shipped from the UK.

 

Here’s an older photo of Pink Gin (which I use a lot) vs Cupcake Pink:
 photo cupcake vs pink gin.jpg
It’s very slightly more orange but turns out gorgeously cutesy pastel pink when rerooted.

Calculating reroot amounts (in cm and grams)

Here’s my own cheat sheet (for the tool method aka hair folded in half and for saran, though I use the same amount of nylon as it tends to be lossy during prep/work).

To calculate the size and number of hanks / skeins to buy :
It takes 3 + 1 half (about 40g) , cut in half , to cover a 5/6″ head with very long hair.

1 “hank” of Retrodolls saran is about 90cm and 12g therefore:
A hank can be cut in 3 = length on the doll 14cm max from roots to ends. 2 hanks per reroot.
A hank can be cut in 2 = length on the doll 20 – 22cm. 4 hanks per reroot.

1 “Skein” of Mylittlecustoms/Restoredoll saran is 46cm and 12g, it contains as much hair as a hank but it is shorter.
4 skeins for a reroot = length on the doll 23 cm.

1 “XL Skein” of Mylittlecustoms/Restoredoll saran is 76cm and 40g, it contains approx. 3 and 1/3 hanks/skeins of fiber.
1 whole reroot (Cut in 2) = length on the doll 19cm.

1 “Large Hank” of Retrodolls saran is 90cm and 50g (contains just over 4 hanks)
1 “XL Hank” of Retrodolls saran is 90cm and 100g (contains 8 hanks)

Not using dollyhair hanks any more as they were averaging 8-9g.

See https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0As0WIngBCIdZdFIzRUdFZmZONktVNzM2eUd5STczVWc#gid=2 for the colour matches between sellers.

 

If you’re looking to measure your doll’s hair in inches, please see NoNapTime’s awesome tutorial: http://www.nonaptime.com/2015/02/calculating-the-amount-of-hair-needed-for-a-reroot

How to Reroot a fringe (bangs) on a doll

  • Seperate out the front line of hair plugs.
  •  photo foffringe1.jpg

  • Cut it and save the hair.
  •  photo foffringe2.jpg

  • Use the hair folded on itself to add 1 or two lines of plugs behind that front row for a thicker, neater look.
  •  photo funkoutfianna.jpg

  • Use hot water to style the hair downwards on the forehead (using a piece of elastic fabric like tights/hose is ideal for this).
  • Use nail scissors to neatly cut the fringe/bangs to just above the eyes but covering the eyebrows.
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    Saran colours from retrodolls

    Lush Lilac saran shifts from pale purples to shades of pink depending on the light.
    RTD Lush Lilac photo lushcombined.jpg

    Teal is a less grey, more green version of DH Lagoon Blue
     photo tealvslagoonblue.jpg
     photo blues.jpg

    Some reds compared to eachother:
    Celtic Red is the colour of tomato soup and Torch Auburn is blood red.
    Red sarans photo reds.png
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    Some blondes compared:
    Lemon has a slight green tinge to it.
    Blondie compared photo blondecomparedwithotherblondes.jpg
     photo blondesnoflash-1.jpg

    Notes: the acronyms DH, RD and RTD stand for Dollyhair, Restoredolls and Retrodolls who have different shades of saran hair on offer and use different names for them.

    Eyelash rooting + cutting pattern for a “cat eye” look

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    1. Root the eyelashes closely together to avoid gaps, make the eyelashes very long (you’ll cut them later)
    2. Use an elastic + boil perm to set the long eyelashes up against the face
    3. Use nail scissors or sewing scissors to trim the eyelashes down to a slanting shape – no longer than 3mm at the shortest part (so it will look like eyeliner not lashes at certain angles).

    Model: Myscene Madison custom “Blue Moon” who’s going to get a boil perm soon. Sorry about the sloppy photos, it’s just to show the technique. She had a wonky eye placement and the eyelashes are meant to minimise that.

    Make a wig, froggystuff tutorial add on

    Froggystuff posted an excellent quick doll wig tutorial, see it here.

    Here’s how to make it seamless:
    picture

    After following the previous tutorial,
    ¤ Use an elastic band that you can sew through (flat) or around (thin)
    If the elastic is too long, cut it to size and sew the ends together roughly.
    ¤ Pin it in several places to the head (push the pin through the elastic and into vinyl of the scalp)
    ¤ Sew it to the hair (use a matching colour thread)
    ¤ Turn it inside out and place it on your doll’s head
    ¤ Cut a fringe (bangs) if the elastic is too visible.

    You now have a seamless wig that should hold nicely even when shaken!
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    Doll head glue seepage, leaking gunk, sticky scalp and hair!

    Meet Alexa, she’s a “Barbie the Diamond Castle singing Princess Alexa Doll” from 2003 Indonesia. Now bald!
    picture —>> picture

    When I first got her, her hair seemed super sticky but I figured that it was just hair gel and that it would wash out. Soap didn’t help at all.
    The stickyness was worse at the base of the hair and scalp was also very tacky so I tried using alcohol on the hair and scalp, first wipes then an alcohol bath.

    In the end, after trying different solvents, I ended up removing all her hair and the contents of her head.
    picture picture picture
    The gunk inside is horrible, it messed up my tools and is very very sticky to deal with. It’s hard to get out as it gunges up and forms a thick mass of hair/gunk that won’t pull through the neckhole.
    Alcohol neutralises the tackiness but once it evaporates the stickiness is back.
    Acetone does not dissolve the glue, neither does WD40.

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    Alexa is going to get a full reroot. It’s the only solution I’ve found so far to save the doll. I’m told this is a common issue with various Mattel Playline dolls such as Monster High. When I rerooted both a Gloom Beach Draculaura and a Basic Ghoulia, they both had this nasty glue sap gunk.
    My Fairytopia Barbies from 2004 don’t have this issue.

    Here are some links from other people who’ve had this issue with their dolls:
    http://www.dollstuff.net/diary/200904041
    http://dollsfromplanetmu.blogspot.fr/2012/08/monster-high-glue-seepage-problem-3.html

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/winksandgiggles/7497107794/

    http://grownwoman.tumblr.com/tagged/glue-head

    http://here-be-dolls.weebly.com/indonesia-problems-and-defects.html

    http://www.flickr.com/groups/mhcc/discuss/72157629222205129/

    http://akkismos.tumblr.com/post/22276103860/since-people-seem-to-be-noticing-and-finally

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/readytosail/7145861361/

    Dance Class Lagoona different glue

    tutorial: glue head photo dclagoona_glue.jpg

    She’s made in China but has a head full of heavy translucent white glue that seeps when exposed to heat or water.
    I bought two and both have the super heavy hard head. I had to heat this one in boiling water and use round nose pliers to get the glue out. It’s slightly less sticky than the beige/yellow glue used in other heads but heavier and harder.
    However, both Dance Class Operettas have no glue…??? Mystery.
    I’ve never had a glue problem with “made in china” monster high heads, just the indonesian ones so far.

    My reroot tool

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    Here’s my workaround to make a pin vise (or “pin vice”) work with medium to hard heads.
    I placed a small screw into the barrel then a long nail (the needle rests on the head of the nail). The needle is a size 7-10 with a slanted cut eye.
    The barrel was wrapped with fabric scraps then plumbers tape then masking tape so that it doesn’t hurt my hand.

    * Pin Vise/Pin Vice – $3 (this is called “porte foret” ou “étau à goupille” in french)
    * Nail, screw and tapes – nicked from the tool kit
    * Fabric scraps
    * Size 7 crewel/embroidery needles for bratz heads, size 8 for barbie.

    Rerooting – Preparing the head

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    An important part of the rerooting process is head preparation: removing the old hair and preparing the scalp for new hair.

    Here are the tools I use:
    * Hair Scissors and Nail scissors to remove the bulk of the hair then cut down to the lowest possible.
    I use the big scissors to scrape the inside of the head to remove plugs afterwards.
    * Big tweezers to remove the hair from the inside of the head, little ones to remove lone plugs from the ouside of the head.

    * Alcohol for cleaning and washing my hands from glue residue.
    * Acetone to remove the scalp paint (cotton pad for large amounts, cotton bud for details)

    * Super glue in gel form to fill in big holes in the scalp (it dries after 12h into a flexible but solid state unlike other glues that just go rock hard and snap off)
    * Fabric scrap to protect the face during the work.

    Not shown: soap and water used twice. big glass of water to wipe hands to remove all chemical residues when handling the doll.