Some work in progress photos to illustrate how I’ve recently done reroots on dolls with holes in their heads (2 barbies with scalp holes for hair/crown gimmicks) and now a monster high clawdeen with the animal ears removed.
E6000 glue placed inside the head via the neck and from the outside of the holes. It’s self levelling so I tape over it and leave it to dry upside down for over 24-36h (anything less and it’ll stick to the tape when you remove it and you’ll have to add more glue. These aren’t thin strips of glue but probably 5 – 7mm globs. It’ll need another 24h to be safe to reroot.
I used a very sharp exacto knife to remove any excess bits on the edge of the holes as it could easily start to peel and pull off.
The glue grabs the needle just like vinyl does so it’s good for a tool method reroot.
I don’t like to layer on the scalp paint too thick (if I use paint at all) to better see the existing holes. The glue patched earholes show up as slightly darker but they’re completely hidden in most hair styles.
I recommend painting over the earholes to be totally opaque when rerooting a pale skinned doll such as Catrine, or if you’re using nylon which is slightly translucent.
New Lush lilac Saran batch from http://retrodolls.uk :
New Clover (no longer high denier, beautiful grassy colour) from Retrodolls vs “evergreen” or “seafoam” from other dollhair vendors:
As always the weights per hank were 11g-12g with a very generous 14g and 16g for Envy and Vapour blends. The hair arrived fast considering it was shipped from the UK.
Here’s an older photo of Pink Gin (which I use a lot) vs Cupcake Pink:
It’s very slightly more orange but turns out gorgeously cutesy pastel pink when rerooted.
Here’s my own cheat sheet (for the tool method aka hair folded in half and for saran, though I use the same amount of nylon as it tends to be lossy during prep/work).
To calculate the size and number of hanks / skeins to buy :
It takes 3 + 1 half (about 40g) , cut in half , to cover a 5/6″ head with very long hair.
1 “hank” of Retrodolls saran is about 90cm and 12g therefore:
A hank can be cut in 3 = length on the doll 14cm max from roots to ends. 2 hanks per reroot.
A hank can be cut in 2 = length on the doll 20 – 22cm. 4 hanks per reroot.
1 “Skein” of Mylittlecustoms/Restoredoll saran is 46cm and 12g, it contains as much hair as a hank but it is shorter.
4 skeins for a reroot = length on the doll 23 cm.
1 “XL Skein” of Mylittlecustoms/Restoredoll saran is 76cm and 40g, it contains approx. 3 and 1/3 hanks/skeins of fiber.
1 whole reroot (Cut in 2) = length on the doll 19cm.
1 “Large Hank” of Retrodolls saran is 90cm and 50g (contains just over 4 hanks)
1 “XL Hank” of Retrodolls saran is 90cm and 100g (contains 8 hanks)
Not using dollyhair hanks any more as they were averaging 8-9g.
See https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0As0WIngBCIdZdFIzRUdFZmZONktVNzM2eUd5STczVWc#gid=2 for the colour matches between sellers.
If you’re looking to measure your doll’s hair in inches, please see NoNapTime’s awesome tutorial: http://www.nonaptime.com/2015/02/calculating-the-amount-of-hair-needed-for-a-reroot
I use the tool method with a smaller size needle for soft vinyl but the biggest problem with soft vinyl is that it tears open really easy
so here’s what I do to try to avoid it:
- Be super careful when removing the original hair to not tug too hard on the holes (cutting super close to the head then gently scraping from the inside while the head is warm seems to work best)
- Cover any risky looking areas with E6000 or superglue gel by pressing the glue into the holes with a big needle and scraping off the excess (24h drying time)
- Make sure to point the needle so that it’s not sideways to the hole (dollyhair.com has a good photo of this on their reroot page)
- When splits happen, seperate all the hair away from the split: fill with E6000 or superglue, leave to dry then work around it. Often the first line is the one to split so I have to redraw the hairline with a mechanical pencil then root in a new line of hair.
— Photos to be added later —
Lush Lilac saran shifts from pale purples to shades of pink depending on the light.
Teal is a less grey, more green version of DH Lagoon Blue
Some reds compared to eachother:
Celtic Red is the colour of tomato soup and Torch Auburn is blood red.
Some blondes compared:
Lemon has a slight green tinge to it.
Notes: the acronyms DH, RD and RTD stand for Dollyhair, Restoredolls and Retrodolls who have different shades of saran hair on offer and use different names for them.
- Root the eyelashes closely together to avoid gaps, make the eyelashes very long (you’ll cut them later)
- Use an elastic + boil perm to set the long eyelashes up against the face
- Use nail scissors or sewing scissors to trim the eyelashes down to a slanting shape – no longer than 3mm at the shortest part (so it will look like eyeliner not lashes at certain angles).
Model: Myscene Madison custom “Blue Moon” who’s going to get a boil perm soon. Sorry about the sloppy photos, it’s just to show the technique. She had a wonky eye placement and the eyelashes are meant to minimise that.
Here’s my workaround to make a pin vise (or “pin vice”) work with medium to hard heads.
I placed a small screw into the barrel then a long nail (the needle rests on the head of the nail). The needle is a size 7-10 with a slanted cut eye.
The barrel was wrapped with fabric scraps then plumbers tape then masking tape so that it doesn’t hurt my hand.
* Pin Vise/Pin Vice – $3 (this is called “porte foret” ou “étau à goupille” in french)
* Nail, screw and tapes – nicked from the tool kit
* Fabric scraps
* Size 7 crewel/embroidery needles for bratz heads, size 8 for barbie.
An important part of the rerooting process is head preparation: removing the old hair and preparing the scalp for new hair.
Here are the tools I use:
* Hair Scissors and Nail scissors to remove the bulk of the hair then cut down to the lowest possible.
I use the big scissors to scrape the inside of the head to remove plugs afterwards.
* Big tweezers to remove the hair from the inside of the head, little ones to remove lone plugs from the ouside of the head.
* Alcohol for cleaning and washing my hands from glue residue.
* Acetone to remove the scalp paint (cotton pad for large amounts, cotton bud for details)
* Super glue in gel form to fill in big holes in the scalp (it dries after 12h into a flexible but solid state unlike other glues that just go rock hard and snap off)
* Fabric scrap to protect the face during the work.
Not shown: soap and water used twice. big glass of water to wipe hands to remove all chemical residues when handling the doll.