Tag Archives: reroot

No ear reroot

  Some work in progress photos to illustrate how I’ve recently done reroots on dolls with holes in their heads (2 barbies with scalp holes for hair/crown gimmicks) and now a monster high clawdeen with the animal ears removed.

E6000 glue placed inside the head via the neck and from the outside of the holes. It’s self levelling so I tape over it and leave it to dry upside down for over 24-36h (anything less and it’ll stick to the tape when you remove it and you’ll have to add more glue. These aren’t thin strips of glue but probably 5 – 7mm globs. It’ll need another 24h to be safe to reroot.

I used a very sharp exacto knife to remove any excess bits on the edge of the holes as it could easily start to peel and pull off.

The glue grabs the needle just like vinyl does so it’s good for a tool method reroot.

I don’t like to layer on the scalp paint too thick (if I use paint at all) to better see the existing holes. The glue patched earholes show up as slightly darker but they’re completely hidden in most hair styles.

I recommend painting over the earholes to be totally opaque when rerooting a pale skinned doll such as Catrine, or if you’re using nylon which is slightly translucent.

Things they don’t tell you about flocking in the most popular tutorials:

If you do not have the exact same glue, do not follow the same instructions or wait times.

  • Watering down your glue may lead to the flocking dripping off your doll’s head slowly if it isn’t a quick drying glue
  • Whatever glue you use make sure that it is solid enough to not ooze. Brush it on then use something flat like a card to make sure the glue isn’t thicker in parts then let it get a little bit tacky before putting on your flocking.
    If you use your fingers to tap down the flocking be very, very gentle as you’ll just push around the flocking which leaves thick and thin bits.
    Waiting an hour with white school glue was not long enough., I went to brush off the flock and made a mess. If in doubt, wait overnight.

You may have to try this multiple times before you get it right so you won’t have the luxury of not collecting up the un-used flocking for re-use

  • Don’t use a plate, use a box with nice pointy corners or collecting your flock for re-use will be difficult. Using paper that you then fold to pour out the flock might seem like a smart idea but don’t underestimate the power of flock to go flying all over the place if you so much as breathe wrong.
  • Make sure to look through the flock for any particules that might have gotten in and remove that with tweezers.

Flocking a flexible head is different from flocking a hard head (such as vintage male dolls, integrity toys or ball jointed dolls)

  • The edges will probably come unstuck if you have to manipulate the head and depending on the style it may not withstand transport in a bubble enveloppe.
  • You will want to reroot first then apply masking tape while flocking as the hair roots may absorb glue if they are a porous fibre.

Different flockings will act differently so following a tutorial made for X flock may not work for what you have in mind for your doll.

  • The wool flock I used went white and crunchy when using multiple layers because it absorbed the glue too well so it was easier to gently apply extra wool to thin spots by hand bit by bit.
  • The glitter became dulled and grey where the glue was too thick. Also some glitters or flock made from chopped ribbon will bleed colour when mixed in non water based glues. (This can stain your doll)
  • Velvet flock usually needs multiple layers to look good.
  • The flock they sell in doll restoration shops is often finely chopped doll hair so you can make your own to match the exact colour of the reroot.

Extra stuff

  • If using masking tape, you need to remove it while the glue is still a bit wet or you’ll tear your new flocking which has a paperlike quality
  • scale matters! the flock that creates a fuzzy look on a small ken head may make a larger doll look near bald. Are you going for a shaved look or a pixie cut look?
  • You can work with chopped wool or mohair for a fluffier look and trim any excess with tiny scissors
  • Flocking is too delicate to serve as a wig: you’ll want to create a hard wig cap then flock that or create something fairly solid (and bulky) with silicone glue or caulk.
  • The amount of microbeads/nail caviar contained in a small vial such as those in 12 colour sets (barely 1g) is not nearly enough for a Monster High sized head and microbeads get embedded in the rooting holes and take quite some scrubbing out if you change your mind or mess it up.
  • paint the scalp if you’re using translucent microbeads as it’ll look patchy no matter how many layers you add

More Saran hair comparisons: Retrodolls.uk

New Lush lilac Saran batch from http://retrodolls.uk :
 photo lushlilac.jpg

New Clover (no longer high denier, beautiful grassy colour) from Retrodolls vs “evergreen” or “seafoam” from other dollhair vendors:
 photo clover vs evergreen.jpg

As always the weights per hank were 11g-12g with a very generous 14g and 16g for Envy and Vapour blends. The hair arrived fast considering it was shipped from the UK.

 

Here’s an older photo of Pink Gin (which I use a lot) vs Cupcake Pink:
 photo cupcake vs pink gin.jpg
It’s very slightly more orange but turns out gorgeously cutesy pastel pink when rerooted.

Calculating reroot amounts (in cm and grams)

Here’s my own cheat sheet (for the tool method aka hair folded in half and for saran, though I use the same amount of nylon as it tends to be lossy during prep/work).

To calculate the size and number of hanks / skeins to buy :
It takes 3 + 1 half (about 40g) , cut in half , to cover a 5/6″ head with very long hair.

1 “hank” of Retrodolls saran is about 90cm and 12g therefore:
A hank can be cut in 3 = length on the doll 14cm max from roots to ends. 2 hanks per reroot.
A hank can be cut in 2 = length on the doll 20 – 22cm. 4 hanks per reroot.

1 “Skein” of Mylittlecustoms/Restoredoll saran is 46cm and 12g, it contains as much hair as a hank but it is shorter.
4 skeins for a reroot = length on the doll 23 cm.

1 “XL Skein” of Mylittlecustoms/Restoredoll saran is 76cm and 40g, it contains approx. 3 and 1/3 hanks/skeins of fiber.
1 whole reroot (Cut in 2) = length on the doll 19cm.

1 “Large Hank” of Retrodolls saran is 90cm and 50g (contains just over 4 hanks)
1 “XL Hank” of Retrodolls saran is 90cm and 100g (contains 8 hanks)

Not using dollyhair hanks any more as they were averaging 8-9g.

See https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0As0WIngBCIdZdFIzRUdFZmZONktVNzM2eUd5STczVWc#gid=2 for the colour matches between sellers.

 

If you’re looking to measure your doll’s hair in inches, please see NoNapTime’s awesome tutorial: http://www.nonaptime.com/2015/02/calculating-the-amount-of-hair-needed-for-a-reroot

How to Reroot a fringe (bangs) on a doll

  • Seperate out the front line of hair plugs.
  •  photo foffringe1.jpg

  • Cut it and save the hair.
  •  photo foffringe2.jpg

  • Use the hair folded on itself to add 1 or two lines of plugs behind that front row for a thicker, neater look.
  •  photo funkoutfianna.jpg

  • Use hot water to style the hair downwards on the forehead (using a piece of elastic fabric like tights/hose is ideal for this).
  • Use nail scissors to neatly cut the fringe/bangs to just above the eyes but covering the eyebrows.
  •  photo fiorenza_transformation.jpg

    Rerooting: Fixing head splits

    I use the tool method with a smaller size needle for soft vinyl but the biggest problem with soft vinyl is that it tears open really easy
    so here’s what I do to try to avoid it:

    1. Be super careful when removing the original hair to not tug too hard on the holes (cutting super close to the head then gently scraping from the inside while the head is warm seems to work best)
    2. Cover any risky looking areas with E6000 or superglue gel by pressing the glue into the holes with a big needle and scraping off the excess (24h drying time)
    3. Make sure to point the needle so that it’s not sideways to the hole (dollyhair.com has a good photo of this on their reroot page)
    4. When splits happen, seperate all the hair away from the split: fill with E6000 or superglue, leave to dry then work around it. Often the first line is the one to split so I have to redraw the hairline with a mechanical pencil then root in a new line of hair.

    — Photos to be added later —

    Saran colours from retrodolls

    Lush Lilac saran shifts from pale purples to shades of pink depending on the light.
    RTD Lush Lilac photo lushcombined.jpg

    Teal is a less grey, more green version of DH Lagoon Blue
     photo tealvslagoonblue.jpg
     photo blues.jpg

    Some reds compared to eachother:
    Celtic Red is the colour of tomato soup and Torch Auburn is blood red.
    Red sarans photo reds.png
     photo streakcolorswatchnatural.jpg

    Some blondes compared:
    Lemon has a slight green tinge to it.
    Blondie compared photo blondecomparedwithotherblondes.jpg
     photo blondesnoflash-1.jpg

    Notes: the acronyms DH, RD and RTD stand for Dollyhair, Restoredolls and Retrodolls who have different shades of saran hair on offer and use different names for them.

    Eyelash rooting + cutting pattern for a “cat eye” look

    picture
    picture

    1. Root the eyelashes closely together to avoid gaps, make the eyelashes very long (you’ll cut them later)
    2. Use an elastic + boil perm to set the long eyelashes up against the face
    3. Use nail scissors or sewing scissors to trim the eyelashes down to a slanting shape – no longer than 3mm at the shortest part (so it will look like eyeliner not lashes at certain angles).

    Model: Myscene Madison custom “Blue Moon” who’s going to get a boil perm soon. Sorry about the sloppy photos, it’s just to show the technique. She had a wonky eye placement and the eyelashes are meant to minimise that.

    My reroot tool

    picture

    Here’s my workaround to make a pin vise (or “pin vice”) work with medium to hard heads.
    I placed a small screw into the barrel then a long nail (the needle rests on the head of the nail). The needle is a size 7-10 with a slanted cut eye.
    The barrel was wrapped with fabric scraps then plumbers tape then masking tape so that it doesn’t hurt my hand.

    * Pin Vise/Pin Vice – $3 (this is called “porte foret” ou “étau à goupille” in french)
    * Nail, screw and tapes – nicked from the tool kit
    * Fabric scraps
    * Size 7 crewel/embroidery needles for bratz heads, size 8 for barbie.

    Rerooting – Preparing the head

    picture

    An important part of the rerooting process is head preparation: removing the old hair and preparing the scalp for new hair.

    Here are the tools I use:
    * Hair Scissors and Nail scissors to remove the bulk of the hair then cut down to the lowest possible.
    I use the big scissors to scrape the inside of the head to remove plugs afterwards.
    * Big tweezers to remove the hair from the inside of the head, little ones to remove lone plugs from the ouside of the head.

    * Alcohol for cleaning and washing my hands from glue residue.
    * Acetone to remove the scalp paint (cotton pad for large amounts, cotton bud for details)

    * Super glue in gel form to fill in big holes in the scalp (it dries after 12h into a flexible but solid state unlike other glues that just go rock hard and snap off)
    * Fabric scrap to protect the face during the work.

    Not shown: soap and water used twice. big glass of water to wipe hands to remove all chemical residues when handling the doll.