Here’s my own cheat sheet (for the tool method aka hair folded in half and for saran, though I use the same amount of nylon as it tends to be lossy during prep/work).
To calculate the size and number of hanks / skeins to buy :
It takes 3 + 1 half (about 40g) , cut in half , to cover a 5/6″ head with very long hair.
1 “hank” of Retrodolls saran is about 90cm and 12g therefore:
A hank can be cut in 3 = length on the doll 14cm max from roots to ends. 2 hanks per reroot.
A hank can be cut in 2 = length on the doll 20 – 22cm. 4 hanks per reroot.
1 “Skein” of Mylittlecustoms/Restoredoll saran is 46cm and 12g, it contains as much hair as a hank but it is shorter.
4 skeins for a reroot = length on the doll 23 cm.
1 “XL Skein” of Mylittlecustoms/Restoredoll saran is 76cm and 40g, it contains approx. 3 and 1/3 hanks/skeins of fiber.
1 whole reroot (Cut in 2) = length on the doll 19cm.
1 “Large Hank” of Retrodolls saran is 90cm and 50g (contains just over 4 hanks)
1 “XL Hank” of Retrodolls saran is 90cm and 100g (contains 8 hanks)
Not using dollyhair hanks any more as they were averaging 8-9g.
See https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0As0WIngBCIdZdFIzRUdFZmZONktVNzM2eUd5STczVWc#gid=2 for the colour matches between sellers.
If you’re looking to measure your doll’s hair in inches, please see NoNapTime’s awesome tutorial: http://www.nonaptime.com/2015/02/calculating-the-amount-of-hair-needed-for-a-reroot
Slice, gently scrape, then sand down those pesky fins/crests.
Ta da! A seamless, easy to dress, pink body!
* Use your craft knife carefully to remove the bulk of the fin,
* Then use the back of the knife to scrape against the body which will leave slight striations as seen in the bottom arm picture.
* Get out your nail sanding block and sand away those lines until it’s invisible.
Now your monster can wear long sleeves and trousers!
What to expect when you get off-brand barbie shoe packs + more shoe related info.
The parts from both bodies are not interchangable.
Create a Monster limbs do not fit in either body’s sockets.
Grid underwear types work well as a standalone body replacement (if you can stand the plastic flaws and possible need to glue suede some of the joints) or torso for CAM.
Heads are a little too loose on the Heart underwear type neck knob.
Spare parts guide:
Create a Monster:
Grid type forearms,
Grid type lower legs with pegs built up with epoxy,
Heart type lower legs cracked out of the body with joints shaved down.
Grid type Torso with arms + legs cracked off, shoulders filled with epoxy and hip nubs cut down to fit.
Normal Monster High:
Heart type hands + forearms
Grid type hands + forearms with pegs shaved down.
If you need new forearms or hands for your monster high, go with the Heart type.
If you need a standalone body, go with the Grid type.
The colors are not an exact match and the plastic is not as sturdy as official bodies but this is a last resort option for those unable to find spare parts without paying $15 to import from overseas.
These can be found by searching for “monster doll body” on aliexpress or on €bay (more expensive).
It’ll take about 45 minutes unless you use a sewing machine.
This is a 9-10″ MSD wig at $6.70 from bjd-fairyland on the bay. Pullips have a less domed head than most MSD ball jointed dolls because the face takes up a lot more space so wigs will need to be adjusted to a more squarish cut.
¤ First place the wig on your doll and pinch the areas that stick up too much on the pullip head. Keeping your pinch, turn the wig inside out and make small pen or pencil marks to pinpoint where your new seam will go.
¤ Use running stitch or pins to try out the new fit.
¤ Turn the wig right way out and brush out the hair from the new seam.
¤ Now cut and sew using an over and over stitch. I went over this twice: once from each side.
¤ Extra: If you don’t want the wig to cover the eye levers in the back, fold it up and put in a quick stitch.
Now you have a Pullip sized wig!
It’s short and this particular wig was made from a rather thin faux fur fabric but it works if you’re going for a short pixie cut look.
From aliexpress: ‘spider monster doll’ (no box or fitting clothes) 1905328394 – $9 including shipping. Also available on €bay at $18
Her body is well made: hard plastic with vinyl lower arms and legs (some marbling in the leg vinyl, some extra flash plastic nubs at her hip joints -shaved off). The arms and legs are flexible but not too loose. Her neck is a solid CAM style knob.
The hair was horrid thick nylon, sparsely rooted. I decided to flock her hair and have her wear wigs if needed because I love this natural look! The white bits you can see on her scalp are where I filled the front row of holes with resin glue to avoid tearing.
The head is the least solid part, it’s thinner than standard monster high heads and the paint is slightly faded. Mine had a huge 5mm empty bubble in the tip of her nose that I rebuilt with resin glue and painted black and a second 1mm bubble in her lips (repainted over with matte red).
The plastic had shiny parts at her eyebrow area and her chin that I sanded with medium grit with a nail buffer block.
She’s wearing leggings cut out and resewn from a Moxie dress and a Monster High dress hastily given new arm seams to fit those triple arms.
I flocked Grace using finely chopped up wool (seperated into strands first to keep the pieces as fine as possible).
I find hobby flock to be too fine for realism and chopped up hair or ribbon works better for the eurasian hair types, type 4 curls are more fluffy.
I just LOVED the spider doll concept from the very start but knew I’d probably never be able to purchase a Wydowna, even when they release her “I ? fashion” playline doll, I’d be looking at $60+ to import her. This doll is a body recast and approximate head (the original has higher cheekbones, a pointier nose and chin) but I don’t feel bad paying the factory workers directly since Mattel pays them so terribly for the legit dolls whilst making a huge profit.
If you decide to get one yourself, be aware that she may require several hours of work to tidy up the plastic, touch ups to the paint and tame the hair.
Another well done review: www.squidoo.com/fake-monster-high-wydowna-spider-doll
The hair required quite a bit of work, I seperated out the pieces and worked on them one by one.
Illiana’s tinsel was removed with a seam ripper then pushed into the holes with a pin.
Her silk shorts were fraying and torn so I unpicked it and turned it into a bubble skirt.
I cut the lace off Carolina’s dress. I then turned the dress inside out to remove the messy bustle (it’s the top seam above the hips, use the seam ripper very carefully).
The bustle was then sewn together where it was split for the dress and given quick stiches to turn it into a bolero/cape.
The lace and tulle cape was taken apart, again with the seam ripper, and turned into a hair tie or a scarf.
I decided to change the hard side glancing eyes, it’s limiting for photos even though they are beautiful:
Use wire cutters or a knife to chop/shave off the large white sides of the eye (they take up almost 40% of the eye chip) and shave/sand off the little pegs for the eyesockets. I pushed tiny bits of tissue paper into the eye sockets when the eyes moved around too much to one side (from the empty space).
I find that they don’t quite reflect the light properly because the eyechips are angled, the plastic is thicker in certain areas. If I can ever be bothered, I’ll pop them out and sand the back some more.
1/ I scratched the eyeball by accident but removed the scratch by using the roughest grit on a nail buffer block then wet+the finest grit on the block.
2/ When removing the eyes, it pulls on the plastic and makes little lines in the eyeliner: keep some acrylic black paint on hand and a very thin needle or tweezer tip to apply the black again.
I had a fake fashionista body that was very loose. I used thick transparent elastic thread (1mm wide and very strong) to restring the legs by going back and forth several times as using fabric eleastic just didn’t work for me.
Here’s how I sueded the torso joint: a line of e6000 glue left to dry for two days creates a rubbery surface to which the bottom joint now has friction:
As for the knees, I used a needle to apply a very thin layer of superglue to the inside of the loose joints then kept the joint moving as it dried. This creates just enough extra friction to keep the legs from flopping around.
I’ve tried all sorts of things over the years for displaying my tiny toys: slotted cardboard to make squares, cardboard steps that didn’t hold up, etc… Buying display steps costs a small fortune and woodworking is just not possible for me.
These steps were made from insulation styrofoam (left over from the move) which can be bought in 5-6cm thick panels for very cheap at your local hardware store.
I cut 3 panels: 15cm, 10cm and 5cm wide and stacked them using toothpicks and glue. Note: I used a much longer wood saw than the one shown because it was too messy with the little hacksaw. It’s very easy to saw through the soft styrofoam then rub the edges together to remove any leftover bits … but you’ll need a vacuum cleaner after as it gets very messy!
I’ll be monitoring closely for plastic melt over the next few months as some plastics just don’t play well together, I’d recommend covering your steps with craft paper or cotton fabric if you can.
The shelves are also protected from dust by transparent curtains made by buying those cheap storage bags that you attach to a vacuum to suck out the air and save space.
They cost about $6-8 each from ebay shipped from china. Just cut the required amount of clear plastic from the side without the vacuum hole bit then use thumbtacks to attach it to the top of the shelves and sticky tack to keep it held down against the shelves.
When you want to take photos of your collection you just roll it up on top of the bookcase to avoid the plastic glare. My dolls barely had any dust after a whole year untouched when I moved house because of this setup!