Tag Archives: pullip

Tutorial: ball chains necklaces for dolls

 photo tutorial ball chain.jpg

Now, most of you probably know about repurposing those little keychain/bag ball chains to make a necklace for your dolls but it can get really fiddly trying to get it on and you’re limited to silver metals that might stain.

Here’s a quick primer on how I’ve been making these:

Buy aluminium ball chains in multicolours and aluminium ball chain clasps in the same ball size (got 500 clasps and a bundle of 6 chains for $1 each free p+p from ebay china).
You then cut the chains to the right length for your doll with a wire cutter and before you add the clasp: widen both ends by pushing a round nose plier upwards so that the clasp is now easy to pop on your doll even when there’s limited space for your fingers (like in the three wrap seen above on Bélla).

As usual, if you’d like some clasps from me (I have hundreds left!) just ask me to add them to an existing order or just pay postage. If you’d like a ballchain necklace, same: 3 for $1.

PS: Bélla is named after Gina Torrès’ character in Hannibal and she’s a modified Magic Nights Out Sashabella.

Tutorial: MSD to Pullip wig

 photo msdtopullipwig.jpg

It’ll take about 45 minutes unless you use a sewing machine.

This is a 9-10″ MSD wig at $6.70 from bjd-fairyland on the bay. Pullips have a less domed head than most MSD ball jointed dolls because the face takes up a lot more space so wigs will need to be adjusted to a more squarish cut.

¤ First place the wig on your doll and pinch the areas that stick up too much on the pullip head. Keeping your pinch, turn the wig inside out and make small pen or pencil marks to pinpoint where your new seam will go.
¤ Use running stitch or pins to try out the new fit.
¤ Turn the wig right way out and brush out the hair from the new seam.
¤ Now cut and sew using an over and over stitch. I went over this twice: once from each side.
¤ Extra: If you don’t want the wig to cover the eye levers in the back, fold it up and put in a quick stitch.

Now you have a Pullip sized wig!
It’s short and this particular wig was made from a rather thin faux fur fabric but it works if you’re going for a short pixie cut look.

How to make doll headbands


To make a head band for your doll you will need:

  • Wire from a used spiral bound notebook or thick beading wire.
  • 4mm and 3mm plastic beads
  • Wire cutter and Round nose pliers (optional)
  1. Cut 12cm of wire for a bratz head, 9cm for a barbie head, 20cm for a pullip head.
  2. Make a loop at the start of the wire, string on your beads and make another loop to close it.
  3. Bend the headband to fit your dolls head. You’re done!

Models: Maggie – Bratz Nighty Nighty Meygan and Dahlia – Fairytopia Barbie


  • To straighten out spiral notebook wire, just jam a piece under your foot and use pliers to gently pull it straight.
  • You can also wrap your wire with ribbon or yarn for different effects.
  • If you have beading wire but it’s too thin and flexible then fold it in two and twist it tightly to make thicker wire.
  • You can use bigger beads for Pullip heads but for smaller dolls, anything over 4mm looks out of scale.

Modding a Pullip type 3 body’s knees.


I’ve looked all over for the original tutorial I learned this trick from but havn’t been able to find it. Please let me know who to credit if you know!

* Take out the knee joint from your type3 body then scrape at the rounded knobbles at the back that limit movement of the knee with a craft knife.

*Put the knee joint back in and your doll will be able to bend her legs further than before!

Animal eyes as eyechips for Pullip

I bought some 12mm transparent glass animal eyes to try them out…

They look like this:

[Image: ani_eye.png]

They are basically a glass dome with a plastic black stem with a rounded top stuck in them. I cut off the part of the stem that sticks out of the back with a pair of metal cutter pliers then sanded the left over black bit down.

Here are two that I painted (w/ cheapo acrylic paints):

The reflection was painted on *top* of the eye, the star was stuck on with varnish.

[Image: painted.jpg]

[Image: painted1.jpg]

[Image: painted_a.jpg]

[Image: painted_b.jpg]

I like the light green eyes best but i would have liked the black rims I’d painted to show up (the glass dome curvature of the eye means that not all of the paint shows). I think coolcat’s new flat chips are probably much better at this (but they cost $4 a pair and these cost me $3 for 5 pairs)

My sister likes the darker turquoise chip best even though I messed up the paint so the details blurred into eachother.

Bratz shoes for Obitsu using pegs

I had a few bratz bait bodies around so gave this a try and it worked very well!

My first tries weren’t too good : one peg was too short, the next was too thin and fell out but it gave me the right mesurement to try again.
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A bratz leg is made of a hard plastic “bone” and soft vinyl “flesh”. The vinyl is not easy to saw, I recommend using a knife for that part.

* Saw off the bottom of a Bratz’s legs (approx 1 inch including peg)
* Yank out the pegs from the vinyl
* Saw down the pegs to make it fit into the obitsu (keep checking until it fits *tightly*). You might have to do this on two sides (side and back)
* Put on Bratz shoes, pick up your doll and balance her until she stands up straight and unaided.


Nina is standing without any help!
I even shook the desk to try and see if she’d fall but she’s stood firmly!
Her balance is actually more solid than in her big brown Myscene boots.

I collect Bratz :heart2: and keep a bunch of flat-soled no-flesh showing shoes around for a good balance (I display them all standing on their own) and easy swapping amongst different skin coloured dolls.
Nina now has a nice new choice of shoes to wear (mainly sneakers and slippers if she is to stand on her own).

Colour match between Obitsu whitetone or fleshtone and Bratz caucasian/asian tone or super pale/goth tone:

Note: Standing alone in some of the Bratz heels is possible but your doll could fall over because the heels tend to bend :